[grunewaj]

tmak,

crazylegs is right, without modification, you will not be able to use a powder check die. I have gotten the directions to incorporate expansion and charging in one station. Here they are from an email I had or found a while ago. I have heard it works, but I wasn't able to get the powder measure height adjusted to get it to work. I plan on having a new spacer made to the proper length so it wouldn't take any adjustment, but I haven't gotten around to it.

You don't have to get an entire Lyman multi-charge die, you can get just the individual expander noses from Lyman.

Ok, NOW here are the instructions!:

A gentleman using the name of 10fan used to inhabit another forum and had the
Hornady L-N-L AP set up with separate seat and crimp dies and RCBS lockout die.
I am moving towards that setup, too, after my recent education on crimps.

I am also curious to know whether the RCBS powder measure from the 2000 press
would fill the bill. Looks very much like the Hornady and I understand there
is some cross polination between the two companies.

Per 10fan:

"...I use a Hornady Progressive and a RCBS lock out die. The way I have mine
set up is:
station 1 sizing die
station 2 powder charge/expand die (will explain in a minute)
station 3 RCBS lock out die
station 4 seating die
station 5 crimping die...

I use the AP case actuated powder measure, with a slight modification. I took
the short powder spacer (meant for a rifle) and drilled and threaded it to
accept a Lyman expander insert (out of a Lyman Multi-charge die). The
modification was easy, only took about 15 mins, cheap ($10 for tap, $ 20 for
Lyman Multi-charge die), and works like a champ...

"Now for the placement of the plug: First locate the middle sized rifle insert
for the auto powder drop. It may be assembled inside of the auto powder drop
already or it may be loose in the packaging. The one you are looking for is
about 1.1 inches long. Clamp it in a vise and drill a 0.317 inch hole through
it. You are not really drilling a hole, more like enlarging the one already
there. Next tap the hole. MAKE SURE you tap the correct end. If you look at
the insert one side has a long gentle sloping funnel towards a smaller hole.
The other side has a very abrupt taper to the hole, that's the side you want
to tap. I'm not sure exactly what the thread is on the tap. I took the Lyman
insert with me to the hardware store and handed it to a clerk and told him
that I wanted a hole threaded to match it. He came back a few minutes later
with a tap and it worked when I got home. I hope that explains every thing.
It really is a lot simpler than it sounds and will only take a few minutes
worth of work. You shouldn't have any problems with 38/357, but if the whole
set up ends up too short (can happen with 380s, 9mms, etc.) just put the other
rifle insert in on top of the modified one. It's kind of hard to explain, but
you will know what I am talking about if it happens...

10fan"

I hope that helps.

Good luck!