Ok, here's the rest, I think. Now that I'm done with it, my buddy told me the layout trick; dab some liquid paper on the work to have a nice surface for the layout marks!
1. Aluminum 1.5" stock 1' (msc enco) $14
2. boring bar* I used enco #379-3110 at $43, but had to bore the die a tad, and # 379-2720 is a smaller diameter hole (7/16 vs 1/2") and only costs $13. Haven't used it, but I think it would be better. Bore and crossdrill/tap for set screw & grind off excess as in pic. Oh, and cut the shank off, first. You can see the shank above the motor in the first pic. The part you use will be about 1.5" long.
3. Tap* hard to find oddball; msc #04847851 "plug style" 13/16"-20 tpi I used a drill countersink followed by a 3/4" drill.
4. Harness* another hard to find part. cpu harness (chop the two prong plug out to use it) HSC electronics (707) 585-7344 There may be a better way, but this is the first thing I found. Part # ada-0000000478 $6
5. Motor Surplus Center 24 volt #10-1796 $10
6. Power supply; I used surplus center #15-1185 $6, but it's AC so I had to put a rectifier on it from Radio shack. If you can find a properly rated DC unit more power to you! Not a common voltage in DC. I am guessing at least 20 watts, but the book lists the amperage at no load, so it's just a guess.
7. Adapter mount screws; METRIC (sorry) Face mount; m3 .50 pitch (3) tail mount; m4 .70 pitch (metric 4, .70 mm thread width)
8. Momentary switch; Radio shack. No p/n, but they are easy to find.
www.use-enco.com www.mscdirect.com www.surpluscenter.com
You can see the ball bearing in the adjuster bolt, this is necessary. A dab of grease or a drop of oil holds it in, and prevents friction. The depth drilled in the rear adapter for the mount screws is kind of precise to keep from hitting little springs, but the screws can be ground down as needed. On my Loadmaster, all I had to do to mount the switch was to drill a hole (1/2"?) in the center of the turret, and put the lockwasher on the bottom of the turret (to make it turn on a little sooner)
Another little thing to note is the face mount needs a little bored off the threads for the face. Same on the rear. I used 1/2"-13 bolts on these, but anything will work. I used 12mm on the first one. I cut the aluminum stock a little over .8" long so once it's faced, it is close to that, but this need not be precise.
The really cool thing is that you can build these things so danged cheap, you can leave the motor on the turret, and never have to adjust it EVER.
PS, you could always buy a couple cheapo machine tools and monkey at it! That's basically what I did!
PPS, I think my next project will be modifying a drill/countersink into a boxer contour primer reamer so I can put berdan .308s into a case length gauge (unsized) in the lathe and convert them. Should take about 5 to 7 seconds per case. If it works reasonably well, I'll post that one up, too.