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I've restored a number of K98s and I offer this advice on removing the front band and other restoration tips. The spring/bar that runs from the front band to the end cap has to be depressed in its channel in order to remove the front cap. You'll notice that the spring has a little nipple that protrudes through the cap and holds it in place. What I do is place a small block of wood on the opposite side of the stock. Then take a medium C-clamp and gently squeeze the spring flush with the stock, so that the little nipple no longer holds the end cap. This will free up both of your hands for the next task. Take a brass tap and hammer and gently tap around the base of the front cap, working it off the end of the rifle. If you have a sight guard, it won't slip all the way off, that's OK. Next gently tap the front band until you can also slide it to the muzzle end. If you have a Yugo M-48, remove the screw just in front of the ladder site. As you lift the top handguard off, rotate it 90 degrees to allow it to slip over the ladder site.
To remove the trigger group, unscrew the two little screws first on its base. These are lock screws that keep the larger ones from backing out. With the slightest pressure you will now be able to lift the action from the stock.
If you need to clean off any cosmoline, I recommend immersing all wood parts into very hot water for a good half hour soak. When removed, spray all wood with EZ OFF oven cleaner (the "nice" stuff without the lye). Let this soak in for 15 minutes or so then scrub the wood with a medium/soft nylon brush. This will not harm the wood at all and will draw out all of the cosmoline. For real nasty stocks, you may have to repeat the process up to three times. While the stock is still wet, look it over for any dents. Most dents will "fix" themselves during the hot soak. Any that are left can be raised by placing a wet towel over the area and placing a hot iron over the dent. The injected steam will lift the dent - it's really amazing how this works. Don't steam too long, only a few seconds, or you may scorch the wood.
Let the wood dry out for at least four days. Then gently go over it with 0000 synthetic steel wool (no oil residue). Don't use sandpaper; it can remove cartouches which give the stock its character. Wipe the stock down with a tack cloth to remove any dust and then apply at least three coats of boiled linseed oil, mixed 2:1 with paint thinner. As you apply each coat, rub vigorously so that the wood feels warm. This will help in penetration. Wait at least 24 hours between each coat. After the last coat dries for 24 hours, apply a paste you can make from equal parts of bees wax, boiled linseed oil and turpentine (Melt the wax on the stove and then add the other components immediately to make a uniform paste). Rub this into the wood as you would a furniture polish. This will impart a beautiful, dull sheen just like it had when it came out of the arsenal! The wood is finished.
For the metal, use turpentine, acetone, coleman fuel or other hydrocarbon to flush all of the cosmoline from the bore, bolt and other parts. Let dry and lubricate liberally.
To reassemble the rifle, just reverse the process. After washing and treating the wood it does swell a little so you may have to give some of the parts a little more push than earlier. Put a little of the paste on the undersides of the metal to help lessen the friction. I always carefully chisel a little wood out of the front spring channel to allow easier assembly - not too much. Don't forget to use the C-clamp to help assist replacing the front cap. Don't be afraid to whack the bands a little to get them on, but be sure to use a brass punch.
Good luck with your project.
Noban
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