The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post - Gun lubricants

Charmedlyfe · February 23, 2001, 11:02 PM

I can think of one problem with motor oil.....it's too thick. I'm NOT a chemical engineer, but I do spend a lot of time working on firearms. Gun oil tends to be lighter than motor oil for a reason. Different flow characteristics are required. Imagine shooting a weapon full of Cosmoline (saw the results of it).

There are different types of motor oils for different applications. You don't use 5W30 in an engine designed for 10W40. Why not stick with a product designed for the purpose you have in mind?

Last, what 'coatings' are you talking about? Blueing (a controlled rust), Parking(a controlled reaction that etches the metal)? Even an NP3 coating wears. You know those shiny spots on your weapon? THE COATING WORE OFF.....and the metal needs to be protected. I doubt you can re-blue or park your guns as frequently as I do. That means you have to protect your guns from wear. By the way, an interesting effect to parking is that the finish itself tends to hold oil. when a parked finish is dry, it can rust because water can get into the finish. Some oils do stay on metal longer (better wear properties). If I'm not mistaken, engines are designed under the 'oil bath' concept, where oil is continually pumped throughout the engine (hence 'oil pressure) during operation. Engine internals will begine to rust if the engine is not run for a while (my experience as little as one month). Firearm mehanicals tend to be less tolerant of rust (functioning) than my favorite 350 small block.....

February 23, 2001, 11:02 PM	#19
Charmedlyfe Junior member Join Date: October 11, 2000 Location: SC Posts: 799	I can think of one problem with motor oil.....it's too thick. I'm NOT a chemical engineer, but I do spend a lot of time working on firearms. Gun oil tends to be lighter than motor oil for a reason. Different flow characteristics are required. Imagine shooting a weapon full of Cosmoline (saw the results of it). There are different types of motor oils for different applications. You don't use 5W30 in an engine designed for 10W40. Why not stick with a product designed for the purpose you have in mind? Last, what 'coatings' are you talking about? Blueing (a controlled rust), Parking(a controlled reaction that etches the metal)? Even an NP3 coating wears. You know those shiny spots on your weapon? THE COATING WORE OFF.....and the metal needs to be protected. I doubt you can re-blue or park your guns as frequently as I do. That means you have to protect your guns from wear. By the way, an interesting effect to parking is that the finish itself tends to hold oil. when a parked finish is dry, it can rust because water can get into the finish. Some oils do stay on metal longer (better wear properties). If I'm not mistaken, engines are designed under the 'oil bath' concept, where oil is continually pumped throughout the engine (hence 'oil pressure) during operation. Engine internals will begine to rust if the engine is not run for a while (my experience as little as one month). Firearm mehanicals tend to be less tolerant of rust (functioning) than my favorite 350 small block.....