Calling all Break Free CLP users...

tstr · October 18, 2001, 01:05 AM

I just started using CLP because of the good recomendations here on TFL.

But dog gone if it doesn't leave my gun just sloppy with oil. It's dripping out of the pores. How do you guys deal with that? I mean, every cleaning manual I've ever read says keep the oil coating light.

Don

October 18, 2001, 01:16 AM

I can't make suggestion really, because I don't really know how your routine and my routine differ. I can suggest though, that you use compressed air (can or compressor) to blow out the excess.

Best,

AAChang · October 18, 2001, 03:14 AM

Well, Breakfree CLP does tend to "sweat" a little so it's to be expected, if it's a problem wipe it down the next day after cleaning. Otherwise it will go to help to prevent rust.

PUMC_TomG · October 18, 2001, 04:37 AM

My advice is to make sure you use CLP VERY lightly. A tiny bit goes a long way. I usually just add a drop to my finger, and apply it that way. One drop is typically enough a significant area of the slide and frame (on a compact). Your results may vary, but just use small amounts.

Spackler · October 18, 2001, 07:27 AM

Use lightly...and SHAKE WELL.

Hemicuda · October 18, 2001, 07:27 AM

Best I can say... (I'm a LONG tome CLP user) is use less... a TINY bit goes a LONG way...

it is EXCELLENT stuff, but it DOES sweat outta the cracks a bit, no matter what...

like they said before... wipe it down the next day, and chalk the rest up to "rust prevention"...

zanthope · October 18, 2001, 08:28 AM

If you're using aerosol, don't spray it directly on the gun - spray it on a patch or rag or Q-Tip and apply it.

It's meant to be "dabbed" not "splattered."

Shake Well!!!

nnciderr · October 18, 2001, 08:48 AM

By clp are ya'll using the army's clp, which is wd-40? or something else. I've used plain ole wd-40 forever, along with a little hoppe's no.9 when needed. i usually clean the frame and turn it upside down on a rag and let the excess clp drip out while i clean the rest of the gun.

Clayton · October 18, 2001, 11:03 AM

The U.S. military does not and has never issued WD-40.

There are two suppliers of CLP to the U.S. military: Break-Free and Royal Lubricants.

A thin coat on metal surfaces is all that is required.

Most "oil" type lubes tend to "creep" on surfaces, which they were designed to do. You might try Milcomm TW-25B or Wilson Combat/Protec Ultima Lube if it bothers you.

www.milcomm.com
www.proteclubricants.com
www.wilsoncombat.com

www.break-free.com
www.royallube.com

Will Beararms · October 18, 2001, 11:34 AM

Take it from a former salesman for a specialty chemical manufacturer: WD 40 is nothing more than perfumed kerosene. The only time it should be used is to displace water like when a shotgun is dropped into the water while duck hunting.

Use breakfree CLP-------------------sure there are better products out there but it can be found everywhere and it does a great job.

Remember WD in WF 40 equals water displacement.

Clayton · October 18, 2001, 12:09 PM

Very true.

FWIW, I work for a local judge's office, and perform maintenance duties on equipment including emergency generators, etc.

When I started, WD-40 was used on all padlocks, door locks, etc.
No rust, but the insides were so varnished over that they would hardly work. The CAT guy almost voided our warranty when he found out about WD-40 being used on parts of the generator.

Mikul · October 18, 2001, 12:47 PM

I apply CLP with a Q-tip and I've never had any leaks.

don't shoot it's me · October 18, 2001, 01:08 PM

i wipe clp on everything with a patch so it doesn't drip...then i use a grease (super lube) for the slide rails so it stays put....

Big Lou · October 18, 2001, 01:29 PM

As others has stated, I don't like to use the aerosol directly on the gun. I prefer the non-aerosol bottles since I tend to make a mess with the spray cans and usually end up putting on too much.

J.T.King · October 18, 2001, 01:37 PM

then rub the CLP-soaked rag over the parts. None of the parts are coated enough to "run."

I let them sit for a few minutes, then wipe it off with a clean, dry rag. There is still enough CLP to do its job on the metal with no excess.

On load bearing surfaces, like rails, I use Tetra Gun Grease.

JT

wildboarZ · October 18, 2001, 01:42 PM

I picked up some Eezox - basically the same performance as Breakfree, but turns out dry and clean instead of wet.

Hutch · October 18, 2001, 01:43 PM

Uhhh, shake up the CLP? Damn. I'm halfway thru a quart, and I in a pump-spray bottle, and I was wondering why it keeps getting thicker and thicker. Should I trash it? Or treasure it for it's increased.... ahh... thickness?

Big Lou · October 18, 2001, 02:12 PM

Hutch, CLP (Cleaning, Lubricating, Protecting) is a mixture of solvent, lubricant, and a protective material. Since you haven't been shaking the bottle, you've probably been using mostly the solvent. I suspect it's still fine for lubricating and protection, but it's effectiveness as a cleaner has probably decreased. I'd suggest you buy a new bottle for cleaning, and save that old bottle for final wipe-downs.

I did the same thing the first time I started using CLP. I guess it pays to read the instructions!

Clayton · October 18, 2001, 03:12 PM

Break-Free CLP needs to be shaken, as mentioned above(and on the container), and remains "wet" on the surface.

ROYCO CLP doesn't require shaking, and dries after 24hrs.

FYI-Super Lube doesn't provide any more lubrication compared to Break-Free or ROYCO CLP, according to the ASTM test data.

Again, I would caution against mixing different lubricants and cleaners, as they aren't all compatible and performance may be altered in a negative way.

I use CLP applied to a piece of T-shirt cloth, Q-tip or pipe cleaner depending on the surface.

johnwill · October 18, 2001, 04:28 PM

I had the pleasure (displeasure?) of working on a gun that was "preserved" with WD-40 and stored for a few years. It took some work just to get the parts that were glued together apart, and then a lot of work to clean that gunk out of the gun! Friends don't let friends use WD-40 on their guns!

CWL · October 18, 2001, 04:46 PM

I use & like CLP, it is just too wet because it penetrates so well.

Because I've been splattered in the eyes by it during firing so now I am very careful with the stuff.

I now use Tetra grease on exposed slide areas.

AR-10 · October 18, 2001, 05:49 PM

I've been using BreakFree CLP to lube and protect my firearms for a couple years.

I recently picked up a squeeze bottle of BreakFree Greased Lightning. It seems to be the same product, without the solvent. It is a thick oil. The bottle says it has no solvent, but that it inhibits rust and corrosion. I've been using it on the rails of my pistols, and it does not bleed out as badly. Very slick stuff.

"For Rapid Fire Automatic and Stainless Firearms."

nnciderr · October 18, 2001, 06:31 PM

I've been using WD-40 for a while, why didn't ya'll tell me I was screwing up. this explains why i have to use double loads to make my guns cycle, now i'll save money on powder. Thanks again.

does walmart have clp? or something close to it?

TimC · October 18, 2001, 07:51 PM

does walmart have clp? or something close to it?

Walmart does sell BreakFree in 4oz spray cans. It's about $4 I believe.

C.R.Sam · October 18, 2001, 08:18 PM

"The U.S. military does not and has never issued WD-40."

I have drawn cases of WD-40 from U.S. military ordinance depots and armorys. We used it for cleaning. Used RIG and Dri Slide for lube and corrosion control.

Break Free CLP from marine hardware and ships chandlers often the cheapest. Last I bought was bout six bucks/14oz aerosol.

Sam

October 18, 2001, 01:05 AM	#1
tstr Senior Member Join Date: April 15, 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 233	Calling all Break Free CLP users... I just started using CLP because of the good recomendations here on TFL. But dog gone if it doesn't leave my gun just sloppy with oil. It's dripping out of the pores. How do you guys deal with that? I mean, every cleaning manual I've ever read says keep the oil coating light. Don

October 18, 2001, 07:27 AM	#6
Hemicuda Senior Member Join Date: September 13, 2001 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,757	Best I can say... (I'm a LONG tome CLP user) is use less... a TINY bit goes a LONG way... it is EXCELLENT stuff, but it DOES sweat outta the cracks a bit, no matter what... like they said before... wipe it down the next day, and chalk the rest up to "rust prevention"... __________________ Hemi. gun and car collector. Rare cars, and rarer guns.

October 18, 2001, 08:28 AM	#7
zanthope Senior Member Join Date: November 20, 2000 Location: Ohio Posts: 258	If you're using aerosol, don't spray it directly on the gun - spray it on a patch or rag or Q-Tip and apply it. It's meant to be "dabbed" not "splattered." Shake Well!!! __________________ We are born naked, wet, and hungry. Then it gets worse.

October 18, 2001, 08:48 AM	#8
nnciderr Member Join Date: October 12, 2001 Location: 92, 42 Posts: 44	By clp are ya'll using the army's clp, which is wd-40? or something else. I've used plain ole wd-40 forever, along with a little hoppe's no.9 when needed. i usually clean the frame and turn it upside down on a rag and let the excess clp drip out while i clean the rest of the gun. __________________ lay smack down

October 18, 2001, 11:34 AM	#10
Will Beararms Senior Member Join Date: October 12, 1999 Location: North Texas Posts: 2,834	WD 40 Warning Take it from a former salesman for a specialty chemical manufacturer: WD 40 is nothing more than perfumed kerosene. The only time it should be used is to displace water like when a shotgun is dropped into the water while duck hunting. Use breakfree CLP-------------------sure there are better products out there but it can be found everywhere and it does a great job. Remember WD in WF 40 equals water displacement. __________________ "Without a rifle you are nothing, worthless, you are waiting for death, any minute, any second." -- Aron Bielski

October 18, 2001, 01:16 AM	#2
Ellery Holt Guest Posts: n/a	I can't make suggestion really, because I don't really know how your routine and my routine differ. I can suggest though, that you use compressed air (can or compressor) to blow out the excess. Best,

October 18, 2001, 03:14 AM	#3
AAChang Senior Member Join Date: December 30, 2000 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 255	Well, Breakfree CLP does tend to "sweat" a little so it's to be expected, if it's a problem wipe it down the next day after cleaning. Otherwise it will go to help to prevent rust.

October 18, 2001, 04:37 AM	#4
PUMC_TomG Senior Member Join Date: July 8, 2001 Posts: 249	My advice is to make sure you use CLP VERY lightly. A tiny bit goes a long way. I usually just add a drop to my finger, and apply it that way. One drop is typically enough a significant area of the slide and frame (on a compact). Your results may vary, but just use small amounts.

October 18, 2001, 07:27 AM	#5
Spackler Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 1999 Location: Central PA, USA Posts: 367	Use lightly...and SHAKE WELL.

October 18, 2001, 11:03 AM	#9
Clayton Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2001 Location: Bentonville, Arkansas Posts: 268	The U.S. military does not and has never issued WD-40. There are two suppliers of CLP to the U.S. military: Break-Free and Royal Lubricants. A thin coat on metal surfaces is all that is required. Most "oil" type lubes tend to "creep" on surfaces, which they were designed to do. You might try Milcomm TW-25B or Wilson Combat/Protec Ultima Lube if it bothers you. www.milcomm.com www.proteclubricants.com www.wilsoncombat.com www.break-free.com www.royallube.com

October 18, 2001, 12:09 PM	#11
Clayton Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2001 Location: Bentonville, Arkansas Posts: 268	Very true. FWIW, I work for a local judge's office, and perform maintenance duties on equipment including emergency generators, etc. When I started, WD-40 was used on all padlocks, door locks, etc. No rust, but the insides were so varnished over that they would hardly work. The CAT guy almost voided our warranty when he found out about WD-40 being used on parts of the generator.

October 18, 2001, 12:47 PM	#12
Mikul Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2000 Posts: 1,396	I apply CLP with a Q-tip and I've never had any leaks. __________________ There are two types of men: those with guns, and those at their mercy.

October 18, 2001, 01:08 PM	#13
don't shoot it's me Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2001 Location: NY first/LA second Posts: 1,537	i wipe clp on everything with a patch so it doesn't drip...then i use a grease (super lube) for the slide rails so it stays put....

October 18, 2001, 01:29 PM	#14
Big Lou Senior Member Join Date: August 8, 2001 Location: Outside Houston, TX Posts: 156	As others has stated, I don't like to use the aerosol directly on the gun. I prefer the non-aerosol bottles since I tend to make a mess with the spray cans and usually end up putting on too much.

October 18, 2001, 01:37 PM	#15
J.T.King Senior Member Join Date: March 8, 2000 Location: SoCal Posts: 345	I squirt a little on a small rag... then rub the CLP-soaked rag over the parts. None of the parts are coated enough to "run." I let them sit for a few minutes, then wipe it off with a clean, dry rag. There is still enough CLP to do its job on the metal with no excess. On load bearing surfaces, like rails, I use Tetra Gun Grease. JT

October 18, 2001, 01:42 PM	#16
wildboarZ Member Join Date: August 25, 2000 Posts: 61	I picked up some Eezox - basically the same performance as Breakfree, but turns out dry and clean instead of wet.

October 18, 2001, 01:43 PM	#17
Hutch Senior Member Join Date: February 12, 2000 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 1,124	Uhhh, shake up the CLP? Damn. I'm halfway thru a quart, and I in a pump-spray bottle, and I was wondering why it keeps getting thicker and thicker. Should I trash it? Or treasure it for it's increased.... ahh... thickness? __________________ "First, the freedom to own and carry the weapon of your choice is a natural, fundamental, and inalienable human, individual, civil, and Constitutional right -- subject neither to the democratic process nor to arguments grounded in social utility" -- L. Neil Smith ' I have an [in]alienable right to bear arms. I will exercise my own judgement in their use and accept responsibilty for the consequences' - Oakleaf

October 18, 2001, 02:12 PM	#18
Big Lou Senior Member Join Date: August 8, 2001 Location: Outside Houston, TX Posts: 156	Hutch, CLP (Cleaning, Lubricating, Protecting) is a mixture of solvent, lubricant, and a protective material. Since you haven't been shaking the bottle, you've probably been using mostly the solvent. I suspect it's still fine for lubricating and protection, but it's effectiveness as a cleaner has probably decreased. I'd suggest you buy a new bottle for cleaning, and save that old bottle for final wipe-downs. I did the same thing the first time I started using CLP. I guess it pays to read the instructions!

October 18, 2001, 03:12 PM	#19
Clayton Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2001 Location: Bentonville, Arkansas Posts: 268	Break-Free CLP needs to be shaken, as mentioned above(and on the container), and remains "wet" on the surface. ROYCO CLP doesn't require shaking, and dries after 24hrs. FYI-Super Lube doesn't provide any more lubrication compared to Break-Free or ROYCO CLP, according to the ASTM test data. Again, I would caution against mixing different lubricants and cleaners, as they aren't all compatible and performance may be altered in a negative way. I use CLP applied to a piece of T-shirt cloth, Q-tip or pipe cleaner depending on the surface.

October 18, 2001, 04:28 PM	#20
johnwill Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2000 Location: PA Posts: 3,451	I had the pleasure (displeasure?) of working on a gun that was "preserved" with WD-40 and stored for a few years. It took some work just to get the parts that were glued together apart, and then a lot of work to clean that gunk out of the gun! Friends don't let friends use WD-40 on their guns!

October 18, 2001, 04:46 PM	#21
CWL Senior Member Join Date: May 23, 2001 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 1,576	I use & like CLP, it is just too wet because it penetrates so well. Because I've been splattered in the eyes by it during firing so now I am very careful with the stuff. I now use Tetra grease on exposed slide areas.

October 18, 2001, 05:49 PM	#22
AR-10 Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2001 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,182	I've been using BreakFree CLP to lube and protect my firearms for a couple years. I recently picked up a squeeze bottle of BreakFree Greased Lightning. It seems to be the same product, without the solvent. It is a thick oil. The bottle says it has no solvent, but that it inhibits rust and corrosion. I've been using it on the rails of my pistols, and it does not bleed out as badly. Very slick stuff. "For Rapid Fire Automatic and Stainless Firearms."

October 18, 2001, 06:31 PM	#23
nnciderr Member Join Date: October 12, 2001 Location: 92, 42 Posts: 44	I've been using WD-40 for a while, why didn't ya'll tell me I was screwing up. this explains why i have to use double loads to make my guns cycle, now i'll save money on powder. Thanks again. does walmart have clp? or something close to it? __________________ lay smack down

October 18, 2001, 07:51 PM	#24
TimC Member Join Date: September 30, 2001 Location: AL Posts: 94	does walmart have clp? or something close to it? Walmart does sell BreakFree in 4oz spray cans. It's about $4 I believe.

October 18, 2001, 08:18 PM	#25
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	"The U.S. military does not and has never issued WD-40." I have drawn cases of WD-40 from U.S. military ordinance depots and armorys. We used it for cleaning. Used RIG and Dri Slide for lube and corrosion control. Break Free CLP from marine hardware and ships chandlers often the cheapest. Last I bought was bout six bucks/14oz aerosol. Sam