MolyFusion™

tonyz · January 7, 2002, 10:20 AM

Has anyone used this product?

If so what is your Opinion of it.
Also where did you purchase it.

From what I've read it seems like it woul be a great friction reducer.

Thanks
Tony

Blackhawk · January 7, 2002, 11:29 AM

Never heard of it, but from the name it sounds like another molybdenum disulfide/oil blend. The moly' adheres to metallic surfaces, and makes them -- friction-wise -- smoooooooth. Such products have been available for decades, and they work, but I doubt there's much difference among them, with one exception.

Moly' is expensive, and it's the magic in such products. If you buy a quart of oil with 1% moly', it's not going to work as well as one with 10% moly', but it will be much cheaper to produce, and it will command a relatively higher price because the 10% producer can't lower the price to compete. IOW, caveat emptor!

A high perentage moly' product is going to be black, black, black, and it will stain your fingers, etc., and you WON'T be able to snap your fingers for a while....

tonyz · January 7, 2002, 02:55 PM

Here is the web site for the Product I am refering to.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/shooters...ol12ozkit.html

Tony

Blackhawk · January 7, 2002, 03:35 PM

Very interesting, Tony! That's the kind of product I'm inclined to try just because I'm curious. I wonder about this though:

Quote:

If purchased for barrel treatment you must not treat the chamber.

Why not treat the chamber too?

Have YOU tried it, and what's your current opinion about it?

Blackhawk · January 7, 2002, 05:25 PM

Just ordered some! The "what-you-get" information on the website was confusing (to me anyway!) so I called the 800 number and ended up talking to the main man himself for a while!

"Why not use it on chambers?", I asked. It's apparently so slick that the brass can't get a grip and seems to move during combustion. Now, that's slick! Not necessarily good, though. I don't know what I think about that....

We talked chemistry, specifically metals, lubricants, and coatings, and this guy really knows his stuff -- at least enough to convince me, and others used to consider me an expert even though I know better.

This is the exciting prospect about MolyFusion. Treated steel is not only really slick, it's corrosion resistant. Most guns are NOT stainless nor are they available in SS, but it would sure be nice if your rust magnet CCW was immune to sweat, wouldn't it...?

Since slicker barrels means lower average pressures, the effect would be lower velocities BUT with higher accuracy since the bullet stability will have fewer variations between rounds.

So for $12 I can treat several square feet of metal, have slicker trigger action, corrosion resistance, and stuff like that. I like that!

And, Tony, did I thank you for posting this thread?

tonyz · January 7, 2002, 06:01 PM

Well if you droped the $12.00 I guees I will to. I have alot of claim to be the best stuff here. If it works great if not I can add it to the pile.

Tony

Blackhawk · January 7, 2002, 06:12 PM

Somehow, my previous post was duplicated!

Anyway, I found some other neat stuff to try at Shooter Solutions, so I dropped more than $50 on them. You know, doing my part to help the recovery!

Blackhawk · February 21, 2002, 01:52 PM

I got the MolyFusion and applied it to the barrel, steel guide rod, firing pin, and slide of a Kel-Tec P11. To cut to the chase, I'm VERY impressed!

I had previously buffed the barrel to a high shine, especially the part visible through the slide ejection cutout. MolyFusion definitely changed the surface, which now has a shiney gray appearance. Its surface is MUCH harder than before as determined by trying to scratch or even mark it with the back of a case hardened knife blade. Anecdotally, it seems about as hard as a steel ball from a ball bearing, but it's much "slicker" to the touch.

Jonathan at ShooterSolutions said "don't treat the chamber." I didn't and don't see why not, so I pressed the issue, focusing on locked breech firearms. I couldn't get any facts supporting the conclusion not to treat it. Anyway, I treated the whole barrel by thoroughly cleaning and degreasing it, then wetting all of its surfaces with MolyFusion and wrapping it in Saran Wrap (it's good for more than cooking!) for about an hour. Wiped it off, rubbed it hard with patches, and that's all there was to it!

I also ignored the caution to use protective gloves since a skin test didn't show any reaction. I haven't fired the treated pistol yet, but the action is remarkably smoother, and I'm thoroughly impressed with MolyFusion at this point!

I've also treated the cutting edge of my favorite pocketknife, which gets constant use as a box opener and consequently needs sharpening often. So far, so good, and I find myself looking around for other places to apply this amazing product.

bluetoe · February 21, 2002, 01:58 PM

Have you tried to moly any of the action yet? I'm curious to know if it would be possible or worthwhile to use this stuff on the hammer and trigger,etc.

Blackhawk · February 21, 2002, 02:40 PM

I've applied it to the slide rails and hammer engagement surface on the slide. From just that and without grease or oil, the action is remarkably smoother compared to grease lubrication.

For this pistol, the next thing is to strip it all the way down and treat the hammer, trigger bar, and slide stop. I'll also treat the hammer axis pin and any other steel parts that "need" lubrication.

I'm not going to treat any springs because I'm not sure what effect making their surfaces harder would have. ShooterSolutions says that MolyFusion changes the chemistry of the metal to as much as 0.002" below the surface. That's fine, IMO, for inflexible parts, but every molecule of a spring is involved in flexing so I'm not quite ready to mess with springs.

BTW, one of the promised characteristics of MolyFusion treatment is corrosion resistance. I understand that treated steel parts have been brine soaked for extended periods with NO corrosion! For CCWs, that will be a tremendous boon -- not stainless, but zero corrosion!

RH Factor · February 21, 2002, 03:16 PM

I was given a bottle of "Dri Slide" It contains molybdenum disulfide. It does turn your fingers black if you get it on them...and it also is slick as ____! (you fill in the blank) It's put out by Guardsman Products, Inc..Fremont, MI 49412

Blackhawk · February 21, 2002, 03:54 PM

I've used Molybdenum Disulfide products before. The black MbSO2 particles are like tiny plates. You know how the cards in a new deck of playing cards are slippery? The MbSO2 acts like that. However, they are only on the surface of the metal instead of becoming part of it. It gets into the crevices and canyons of the apparently polished metal which increases the performance of lubricants somewhat like cast iron does. (Cast iron has tiny pockets of carbon throughout, and that's why it's an excellent bearing surface.)

I've used MbSO2 in the oil of high performance engines and obtained it in quart cans containing 50% MbSO2 -- very expensive, but it was worth it! The problem with it is that it must be constantly renewed -- it's not permanent.

MolyFusion is different in that it contains no MbSO2 so it's not black. It's a light green solution of Molybdenum Phospate with a viscosity slightly greater than water. When applied, it chemically changes the surface of the metal -- it's almost like chemically case hardening and polishing the metal at the same time. There's no measurable change in dimensions, but the increased slickness it very apparent and the shine of previously polished steel is considerably reduced -- even gray. It certainly does some things, and those things certainly seem to be all good!

Mikul · February 22, 2002, 05:00 PM

After reading the instructions it recommends against applying it to the rails as the reduced friction can cause the slide to move with greater speed than the gun was designed for. A stronger spring may be called for.

The instructions are very poorly written. They make very little logical sense. The owner should pay someone to proofread and fix this information. It is not only confusing, but it makes the company look bad.

So far, I've only applied it to a coping saw blade which I'll finally get to use tonight.

Blackhawk · February 22, 2002, 05:10 PM

I'm from the "friction = bad" School of Moving Metal Mechanisms too.

Watching the grinding of the Olympic skate blades, I couldn't help but wonder what results they'd get if they polished the blades and gave them the MF treatment.

SteveC · February 23, 2002, 09:57 PM

Molyfusion sounds like it uses the phosphate to bond to the steel (maybe the same way that parkerizing works).

Would it work on parts that have been polycoated, chromed or nickeled?

Steve

Blackhawk · February 23, 2002, 11:23 PM

ShooterSolutions' instruction sheet says it will "work with most metal/steels, including stainless and galvanaized steels."

Then it says it will not "bond to pure copper or pure titanium...."

Since it supposedly works with galvanized steels, it might work with chromed or nickeled ones too, because all three processes are similar in many respects. Polycoated? No guess at all!

Since the treatment definitely changes the surface characteristics of steel, it might be revealing to spot test it on other surfaces. With steel, there's an appearance change, change to the touch, slickness increase, and hardness increase. The treated spot should change compared to the surrounding metal if it's effective.

Now I need to get some samples of different materials....

Coltdriver · February 24, 2002, 01:11 PM

Hey Blackhawk,

So you just apply it by putting it on the part and covering it in saran wrap?

Nothing else?

Sounds too easy, no baking, no smell.

I went to the web site and it seemed to emphasize proper application as the key to success.

Is there anything else to applying it?

Thanks

Blackhawk · February 24, 2002, 01:56 PM

The instructions are not exactly consistent. They say degrease completely using soap and water, industrial alcohol, etc. They also say it penetrates "extremely well" through "standard petroleum-based oil, but it may require more of it to do so."

I just did my normal degreasing by rubbing all the excess off the parts with Kleenex, then soaking a kleenex with 91% isopropyl alcohol and rubbing thoroughly, and repeating 2-3 more times. Then I heated the parts with a hairdryer until I couldn't hold them, laid out a piece of Saran wrap for each part, applied MolyFusion by wetting the surfaces completely, wrapped the Saran wrap tightly, and let them sit for about an hour. There were no spectacular results immediately, but after the hour, the "color" change was obvious. Unwrapped the parts, wiped them thoroughly with Kleenex, and that's all that was necessary.

It is very easy to use. If I were to rewrite the instructions, they would just say:

1. Clean and degrease the part.
2. Warm the part.
3. Place on a piece of plastic wrap.
4. Wet the part with MolyFusion.
5. Wrap the part to keep the MolyFusion from drying out.
6. Wait 30-60 minutes before unwrapping.
7. Wipe clean.

I used Saran Wrap because I thought it might be necessary to warm the parts to get "something" to happen after wrapping them up. Didn't seem necessary, and I didn't do it. Seemed to work great anyway!

Coltdriver · February 24, 2002, 02:42 PM

Blackhawk,

After reading your results I went to their web site and ordered a couple of bottles last night.

Do you know if the metal has to be bare?? For example, will the process work over a blued part?? Or do you need to remove the blue?

I am really looking forward to trying this stuff.

Thanks again.

Blackhawk · February 24, 2002, 05:24 PM

My guess is that it works just fine over blue. Reason I say that is that I just applied it to a P11 slide stop (which only has a tiny area that's not blued), and the whole part seems just as slick as any other bare part I've applied it to. I tried scratching it with the back of a case hardened knife blade without success. The reason I put in the caveat that it's a guess about it working is that particular part was already hardened.

In any event, it certainly doesn't hurt the blued finish, and it does seem to work.

Eric Larsen · February 24, 2002, 11:02 PM

I ordered the 8 ml and it should be here this week. I will use it on my guns and see how it does. I should be able to coat the cylinders of a revolver.....I will have to see. Shoot well

Jim March · February 25, 2002, 03:50 AM

I'm wondering if it'll make the empties fall out of a revolver faster/easier? Esp. in a .357Mag.

Reports from people into SA Rugers say that polishing the cylinder bores so that empties fall out without extraction works far better in .45LC than .357 because of the relative difference in peak pressures and the resulting brass distortion.

Could this process help even the high-pressure loads drop free?

Blackhawk · February 25, 2002, 06:04 PM

It should work great, Jim.

Pressure forming brass into soft and rough chambers or cylinders is an almost guaranteed way to get them to stick. This stuff seems to deliver two of the advantages of chrome plating -- smoothness and hardness -- that should definitely help.

After half a century of messing with guns (and not quite that long as a mechanical designer), I simply can't agree with the MolyFusion folks who seem to think that sticky chambers are that way by design!

If you try it, let us know what happens.

BTW, the stuff is very economical to use. I've completely done the barrel and other steel parts of a Kel-Tec P11 except that I just treated the rails and hammer interface of the slide, and have more than 90% remaining despite my sloppiness with it!

Mikul · February 26, 2002, 11:32 AM

The instructions that I got with my kit were (long, poorly written story short) appy to bare, cleaned metal and keep wet for 20 minutes. The temperature of the metal must be below 100 degrees, but the closer to 100, the faster it bonds. You can keep the part wet by applying more Molyfusion or using distilled water.

Coltdriver · March 23, 2002, 09:57 PM

Well after reading this thread I ordered 8 ml of Molyfusion.

Took a month to arrive due to the proprietor getting the flu and other problems that he had.

But I got it yesterday.

So last night I took apart the trigger group on my stock Bushmaster AR15.

I cleaned the parts up in hot soapy water. I treated all of the places where the parts contact each other. Took about 25 minutes. I treated the pins for the hammer and the trigger too.

Rinsed these parts off, oiled them with clp and put the group back together.

The difference is notable. It does not change the geometry of the stock trigger group, which is admittedly well....stock. However, the pull is so smooth that it is by comparison, a major improvement. All of the grittyness of the stock set is gone.

Took it out to shoot it today. It is still utterly reliable (always was) but no double fire or malfunction occured and the trigger smoothness remains after a hundred rounds.

The product noticably slickens the metal. It made a finely finished part feel like glass. Very interesting stuff and for $20.00 not a bad thing to experiment with.

So now I am going to experiment with some other friction points on some other pistols.

January 7, 2002, 10:20 AM	#1
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	MolyFusion™ Has anyone used this product? If so what is your Opinion of it. Also where did you purchase it. From what I've read it seems like it woul be a great friction reducer. Thanks Tony

February 21, 2002, 01:58 PM	#9
bluetoe Senior Member Join Date: September 5, 2001 Posts: 174	Have you tried to moly any of the action yet? I'm curious to know if it would be possible or worthwhile to use this stuff on the hammer and trigger,etc. __________________ I hate bigots, they're all the same

February 22, 2002, 05:00 PM	#13
Mikul Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2000 Posts: 1,398	After reading the instructions it recommends against applying it to the rails as the reduced friction can cause the slide to move with greater speed than the gun was designed for. A stronger spring may be called for. The instructions are very poorly written. They make very little logical sense. The owner should pay someone to proofread and fix this information. It is not only confusing, but it makes the company look bad. So far, I've only applied it to a coping saw blade which I'll finally get to use tonight. __________________ There are two types of men: those with guns, and those at their mercy.

February 23, 2002, 09:57 PM	#15
SteveC Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 2001 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 211	Will it work on coated parts? Molyfusion sounds like it uses the phosphate to bond to the steel (maybe the same way that parkerizing works). Would it work on parts that have been polycoated, chromed or nickeled? Steve

February 24, 2002, 11:02 PM	#21
Eric Larsen Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2001 Location: Bountiful....Ut. Posts: 3,226	I ordered the 8 ml and it should be here this week. I will use it on my guns and see how it does. I should be able to coat the cylinders of a revolver.....I will have to see. Shoot well __________________ If they dont know you have a gun.....then I did alright! If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice......Rush

January 7, 2002, 11:29 AM	#2
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	Never heard of it, but from the name it sounds like another molybdenum disulfide/oil blend. The moly' adheres to metallic surfaces, and makes them -- friction-wise -- smoooooooth. Such products have been available for decades, and they work, but I doubt there's much difference among them, with one exception. Moly' is expensive, and it's the magic in such products. If you buy a quart of oil with 1% moly', it's not going to work as well as one with 10% moly', but it will be much cheaper to produce, and it will command a relatively higher price because the 10% producer can't lower the price to compete. IOW, caveat emptor! A high perentage moly' product is going to be black, black, black, and it will stain your fingers, etc., and you WON'T be able to snap your fingers for a while....

January 7, 2002, 02:55 PM	#3
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	Here is the web site for the Product I am refering to. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/shooters...ol12ozkit.html Tony

January 7, 2002, 05:25 PM	#5
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	Just ordered some! The "what-you-get" information on the website was confusing (to me anyway!) so I called the 800 number and ended up talking to the main man himself for a while! "Why not use it on chambers?", I asked. It's apparently so slick that the brass can't get a grip and seems to move during combustion. Now, that's slick! Not necessarily good, though. I don't know what I think about that.... We talked chemistry, specifically metals, lubricants, and coatings, and this guy really knows his stuff -- at least enough to convince me, and others used to consider me an expert even though I know better. This is the exciting prospect about MolyFusion. Treated steel is not only really slick, it's corrosion resistant. Most guns are NOT stainless nor are they available in SS, but it would sure be nice if your rust magnet CCW was immune to sweat, wouldn't it...? Since slicker barrels means lower average pressures, the effect would be lower velocities BUT with higher accuracy since the bullet stability will have fewer variations between rounds. So for $12 I can treat several square feet of metal, have slicker trigger action, corrosion resistance, and stuff like that. I like that! And, Tony, did I thank you for posting this thread?

January 7, 2002, 06:01 PM	#6
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	Well if you droped the $12.00 I guees I will to. I have alot of claim to be the best stuff here. If it works great if not I can add it to the pile. Tony

January 7, 2002, 06:12 PM	#7
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	Somehow, my previous post was duplicated! Anyway, I found some other neat stuff to try at Shooter Solutions, so I dropped more than $50 on them. You know, doing my part to help the recovery!

February 21, 2002, 01:52 PM	#8
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	I got the MolyFusion and applied it to the barrel, steel guide rod, firing pin, and slide of a Kel-Tec P11. To cut to the chase, I'm VERY impressed! I had previously buffed the barrel to a high shine, especially the part visible through the slide ejection cutout. MolyFusion definitely changed the surface, which now has a shiney gray appearance. Its surface is MUCH harder than before as determined by trying to scratch or even mark it with the back of a case hardened knife blade. Anecdotally, it seems about as hard as a steel ball from a ball bearing, but it's much "slicker" to the touch. Jonathan at ShooterSolutions said "don't treat the chamber." I didn't and don't see why not, so I pressed the issue, focusing on locked breech firearms. I couldn't get any facts supporting the conclusion not to treat it. Anyway, I treated the whole barrel by thoroughly cleaning and degreasing it, then wetting all of its surfaces with MolyFusion and wrapping it in Saran Wrap (it's good for more than cooking!) for about an hour. Wiped it off, rubbed it hard with patches, and that's all there was to it! I also ignored the caution to use protective gloves since a skin test didn't show any reaction. I haven't fired the treated pistol yet, but the action is remarkably smoother, and I'm thoroughly impressed with MolyFusion at this point! I've also treated the cutting edge of my favorite pocketknife, which gets constant use as a box opener and consequently needs sharpening often. So far, so good, and I find myself looking around for other places to apply this amazing product.

February 21, 2002, 02:40 PM	#10
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	I've applied it to the slide rails and hammer engagement surface on the slide. From just that and without grease or oil, the action is remarkably smoother compared to grease lubrication. For this pistol, the next thing is to strip it all the way down and treat the hammer, trigger bar, and slide stop. I'll also treat the hammer axis pin and any other steel parts that "need" lubrication. I'm not going to treat any springs because I'm not sure what effect making their surfaces harder would have. ShooterSolutions says that MolyFusion changes the chemistry of the metal to as much as 0.002" below the surface. That's fine, IMO, for inflexible parts, but every molecule of a spring is involved in flexing so I'm not quite ready to mess with springs. BTW, one of the promised characteristics of MolyFusion treatment is corrosion resistance. I understand that treated steel parts have been brine soaked for extended periods with NO corrosion! For CCWs, that will be a tremendous boon -- not stainless, but zero corrosion!

February 21, 2002, 03:16 PM	#11
RH Factor Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2001 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 230	I was given a bottle of "Dri Slide" It contains molybdenum disulfide. It does turn your fingers black if you get it on them...and it also is slick as ____! (you fill in the blank) It's put out by Guardsman Products, Inc..Fremont, MI 49412

February 21, 2002, 03:54 PM	#12
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	I've used Molybdenum Disulfide products before. The black MbSO2 particles are like tiny plates. You know how the cards in a new deck of playing cards are slippery? The MbSO2 acts like that. However, they are only on the surface of the metal instead of becoming part of it. It gets into the crevices and canyons of the apparently polished metal which increases the performance of lubricants somewhat like cast iron does. (Cast iron has tiny pockets of carbon throughout, and that's why it's an excellent bearing surface.) I've used MbSO2 in the oil of high performance engines and obtained it in quart cans containing 50% MbSO2 -- very expensive, but it was worth it! The problem with it is that it must be constantly renewed -- it's not permanent. MolyFusion is different in that it contains no MbSO2 so it's not black. It's a light green solution of Molybdenum Phospate with a viscosity slightly greater than water. When applied, it chemically changes the surface of the metal -- it's almost like chemically case hardening and polishing the metal at the same time. There's no measurable change in dimensions, but the increased slickness it very apparent and the shine of previously polished steel is considerably reduced -- even gray. It certainly does some things, and those things certainly seem to be all good!

February 22, 2002, 05:10 PM	#14
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	I'm from the "friction = bad" School of Moving Metal Mechanisms too. Watching the grinding of the Olympic skate blades, I couldn't help but wonder what results they'd get if they polished the blades and gave them the MF treatment.

February 23, 2002, 11:23 PM	#16
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	ShooterSolutions' instruction sheet says it will "work with most metal/steels, including stainless and galvanaized steels." Then it says it will not "bond to pure copper or pure titanium...." Since it supposedly works with galvanized steels, it might work with chromed or nickeled ones too, because all three processes are similar in many respects. Polycoated? No guess at all! Since the treatment definitely changes the surface characteristics of steel, it might be revealing to spot test it on other surfaces. With steel, there's an appearance change, change to the touch, slickness increase, and hardness increase. The treated spot should change compared to the surrounding metal if it's effective. Now I need to get some samples of different materials....

February 24, 2002, 01:11 PM	#17
Coltdriver Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2001 Posts: 678	Hey Blackhawk, So you just apply it by putting it on the part and covering it in saran wrap? Nothing else? Sounds too easy, no baking, no smell. I went to the web site and it seemed to emphasize proper application as the key to success. Is there anything else to applying it? Thanks

February 24, 2002, 01:56 PM	#18
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	The instructions are not exactly consistent. They say degrease completely using soap and water, industrial alcohol, etc. They also say it penetrates "extremely well" through "standard petroleum-based oil, but it may require more of it to do so." I just did my normal degreasing by rubbing all the excess off the parts with Kleenex, then soaking a kleenex with 91% isopropyl alcohol and rubbing thoroughly, and repeating 2-3 more times. Then I heated the parts with a hairdryer until I couldn't hold them, laid out a piece of Saran wrap for each part, applied MolyFusion by wetting the surfaces completely, wrapped the Saran wrap tightly, and let them sit for about an hour. There were no spectacular results immediately, but after the hour, the "color" change was obvious. Unwrapped the parts, wiped them thoroughly with Kleenex, and that's all that was necessary. It is very easy to use. If I were to rewrite the instructions, they would just say: 1. Clean and degrease the part. 2. Warm the part. 3. Place on a piece of plastic wrap. 4. Wet the part with MolyFusion. 5. Wrap the part to keep the MolyFusion from drying out. 6. Wait 30-60 minutes before unwrapping. 7. Wipe clean. I used Saran Wrap because I thought it might be necessary to warm the parts to get "something" to happen after wrapping them up. Didn't seem necessary, and I didn't do it. Seemed to work great anyway!

February 24, 2002, 02:42 PM	#19
Coltdriver Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2001 Posts: 678	Blackhawk, After reading your results I went to their web site and ordered a couple of bottles last night. Do you know if the metal has to be bare?? For example, will the process work over a blued part?? Or do you need to remove the blue? I am really looking forward to trying this stuff. Thanks again.

February 24, 2002, 05:24 PM	#20
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	My guess is that it works just fine over blue. Reason I say that is that I just applied it to a P11 slide stop (which only has a tiny area that's not blued), and the whole part seems just as slick as any other bare part I've applied it to. I tried scratching it with the back of a case hardened knife blade without success. The reason I put in the caveat that it's a guess about it working is that particular part was already hardened. In any event, it certainly doesn't hurt the blued finish, and it does seem to work.

February 25, 2002, 03:50 AM	#22
Jim March Senior Member Join Date: February 14, 1999 Location: Pittsburg, CA, USA Posts: 4,695	I'm wondering if it'll make the empties fall out of a revolver faster/easier? Esp. in a .357Mag. Reports from people into SA Rugers say that polishing the cylinder bores so that empties fall out without extraction works far better in .45LC than .357 because of the relative difference in peak pressures and the resulting brass distortion. Could this process help even the high-pressure loads drop free? __________________ Jim March

February 25, 2002, 06:04 PM	#23
Blackhawk Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2001 Posts: 5,053	It should work great, Jim. Pressure forming brass into soft and rough chambers or cylinders is an almost guaranteed way to get them to stick. This stuff seems to deliver two of the advantages of chrome plating -- smoothness and hardness -- that should definitely help. After half a century of messing with guns (and not quite that long as a mechanical designer), I simply can't agree with the MolyFusion folks who seem to think that sticky chambers are that way by design! If you try it, let us know what happens. BTW, the stuff is very economical to use. I've completely done the barrel and other steel parts of a Kel-Tec P11 except that I just treated the rails and hammer interface of the slide, and have more than 90% remaining despite my sloppiness with it!

February 26, 2002, 11:32 AM	#24
Mikul Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2000 Posts: 1,398	The instructions that I got with my kit were (long, poorly written story short) appy to bare, cleaned metal and keep wet for 20 minutes. The temperature of the metal must be below 100 degrees, but the closer to 100, the faster it bonds. You can keep the part wet by applying more Molyfusion or using distilled water. __________________ There are two types of men: those with guns, and those at their mercy.

March 23, 2002, 09:57 PM	#25
Coltdriver Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2001 Posts: 678	Well after reading this thread I ordered 8 ml of Molyfusion. Took a month to arrive due to the proprietor getting the flu and other problems that he had. But I got it yesterday. So last night I took apart the trigger group on my stock Bushmaster AR15. I cleaned the parts up in hot soapy water. I treated all of the places where the parts contact each other. Took about 25 minutes. I treated the pins for the hammer and the trigger too. Rinsed these parts off, oiled them with clp and put the group back together. The difference is notable. It does not change the geometry of the stock trigger group, which is admittedly well....stock. However, the pull is so smooth that it is by comparison, a major improvement. All of the grittyness of the stock set is gone. Took it out to shoot it today. It is still utterly reliable (always was) but no double fire or malfunction occured and the trigger smoothness remains after a hundred rounds. The product noticably slickens the metal. It made a finely finished part feel like glass. Very interesting stuff and for $20.00 not a bad thing to experiment with. So now I am going to experiment with some other friction points on some other pistols.