Ruger Target Trigger?

Shalako · December 5, 2002, 01:53 PM

I just noticed on yzguy's website that the Ruger Mark II target trigger has an adjustment screw. It looks like an over-travel adjustment. Is there a source online that indicates how best to fiddle with this feature? I assume the receiver will have to be yanked off the frame to get at this little goodie, but can I safely dry fire the trigger when in this condition? I hate to see components slam into unintended places due to being semi-dismantled.

Thanks!

-Shalako

Sactown · December 5, 2002, 02:34 PM

Try www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/ They have a Ruger forum that should be able to answer your question. I installed the Volquartsen trigger parts, the trigger had an overtravel screw in it. If only ruger put in a pre-travel adjustment for their triggers.

md2lgyk · December 5, 2002, 05:21 PM

I could be wrong, but I believe the only adjustment the trigger has is for overtravel. It's a small allen screw in the middle of the trigger which you can adjust without disassembling anything. Typically, you can just turn in on the screw until the hammer won't fall when you pull the trigger then back it off a turn or so (I presume the Ruger trigger works like this - I have a Clark trigger on my Mk II and that's how it works).

tonyz · December 5, 2002, 07:18 PM

md2lgyk

Your exectly right it is an over travel screw, both Clark and Volquartsen offer it on the replacment triggers for the Mark II.

Tony Z

**JohnKSa** · December 5, 2002, 09:58 PM

Ruger calls it a target trigger and implies that it's a special part.

However, to date, I have yet to find a Mark II of any model that didn't come with one installed from the factory.

The adjustment screw is tightened all the way down, so you have to take the gun all apart and then back the screw out a little at a time until it just barely releases the sear.

The Mark II pistols have a VERY nice trigger after you remove all the overtravel. If you want them to be a little nicer, you can shim the trigger to prevent side-to-side movement and then polish the sear a bit. In the past, I have cut a half a coil to a full coil off the trigger return spring (located in the trigger under the plunger), but the last two I have worked on I didn't do it and couldn't really tell the difference in the final trigger pull.

As for dryfiring while disassembled. You don't need to worry. By the time you get it taken apart to the point that you can work on the trigger, the mainspring has been out of the gun for awhile. Remember, that's the first part that you remove.

You'll have to push the hammer forward with your thumb while pulling the trigger.

BTW, there is a retaining spring holding in the trigger pin. Don't just drive the pin out--when you depress the spring properly the pin will push out easily.

tonyz · December 6, 2002, 09:05 AM

JohnKSa

Sounds like your the man I needs to do a trigger job on my Bullseye Target Mark II.

Tony Z

yzguy · December 6, 2002, 11:38 AM

yes that is an over travel adjustment that is not set at the factory. It is kind of a pain to adjust because you have to disassemble (pull the trigger out) to adjust it, then reassemble to check the adjustment. You can also modify that trigger to have a pretravel screw of the same nature. Look at where the screw is in relation to the pivot point of the trigger. It is above it. If you go to home depot and get a small set screw and a tap, you can put a similar screw in the trigger below the pivot point. This will be the pretravel adjustment. I got the SS Vol. Targer trigger which has an over travel stop that can be adjusted externally. I have not attempted the pre-travel modification on it because it is SS (stock trigger is aluminum, much easier to work with) and I'm not sure if such a small tap will break off inside my trigger because if it being SS. I may even put the stock one back in with the pretravel mod... not sure yet...

here is a pic of some one else's pretravel screw:
http://www.1bad69.com/gallery/GunStu...r/dsc00046.jpg

**JohnKSa** · December 6, 2002, 10:35 PM

Tonyz,

I'm not a gunsmith. The Mark IIs I've worked on have been mine (I've owned 4) or belonged to very close friends.

There's nothing complicated about the procedure though. To start with, forget about the shims and the polishing.

Disassemble the gun until you are holding just the grip frame with its internal parts.

Using a small screwdriver, locate the trigger pin retaining spring (it's a long curved spring that comes up out of the magazine well--kind of--and runs under the trigger pin on the right side of the frame).

When you have it depressed, the trigger pin will practically fall out of the frame, or will be easy to push out.

With the trigger pin out of the gun the trigger assembly will swing up and out of the gun on the trigger bar. Do this carefully to keep all the parts together.

Back the screw out a little and swing the trigger back down into the frame. Put the trigger pin in BACKWARDS from the left side of the frame so that it doesn't lock into place (the locking groove will be on the wrong side of the gun) and test the gun by pushing the hammer all the way back and then forward. It will catch on the sear and you should be able to release it with the trigger (or not). Remember, there's no mainspring in the gun so you'll have to do its job with your thumb.

Repeat this procedure until the overtravel is removed. Don't mess with the screw any more than you have to so it doesn't loosen up. If it gets too loose you will have to loc-tite it in place. So far I've never had to.

This is a bit simplified because I've left out the fact that you have to deal with a piece of the slide lock/release assembly that also rides on the trigger pin. There's a plunger and a pin that will come out when you pull out the trigger pin and you'll have to get it back the way it was when you put things back together (no need to mess with it during the adjustment process. It's not hard, but I recommend looking at everything carefully before you remove the trigger pin.

Put some light grease on top of the trigger return plunger that sits on top of the trigger and get some on the sear if you can.

Don't remove any of the other pins in the gun. There's no need to mess with them.

If you're not happy with your new trigger then you can polish the sear.

Have fun,

John

tonyz · December 7, 2002, 10:43 AM

Thanks John.
I have taken the Ruger apart down to the trigger assemble before, polishing any of the parts that needed it up to that point.
I am thinking of putting in the Volquartsen Accurizing Kit.
If I mess it up I can always take theGun and parts to the Gun Smith. He is a Mark II man, that can really tune the trigger on the rugers with just a new trigger from Clarks.
I am the type of person that likes to do the job myself, if it turns out good I am very please in a job done well by me.

Tony Z

Shalako · December 8, 2002, 01:48 PM

Wow! Thanks a lot guys.
John your directions sound great . I will read them a few more times and go take a looksee at that trigger. This is one of those do-it-yourself jobs that can really be fun, especially if it can improve your groups and get you to know your firearm better.

Thanks again!

-Shalako

December 5, 2002, 01:53 PM	#1
Shalako Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2002 Location: Sacto, PRK Posts: 102	Ruger Target Trigger? I just noticed on yzguy's website that the Ruger Mark II target trigger has an adjustment screw. It looks like an over-travel adjustment. Is there a source online that indicates how best to fiddle with this feature? I assume the receiver will have to be yanked off the frame to get at this little goodie, but can I safely dry fire the trigger when in this condition? I hate to see components slam into unintended places due to being semi-dismantled. Thanks! -Shalako

December 5, 2002, 05:21 PM	#3
md2lgyk Senior Member Join Date: January 5, 2001 Location: Charles Town, WV Posts: 102	I could be wrong, but I believe the only adjustment the trigger has is for overtravel. It's a small allen screw in the middle of the trigger which you can adjust without disassembling anything. Typically, you can just turn in on the screw until the hammer won't fall when you pull the trigger then back it off a turn or so (I presume the Ruger trigger works like this - I have a Clark trigger on my Mk II and that's how it works). __________________ "The great object is, that every man be armed. Everyone who is able may have a gun." - Patrick Henry

December 5, 2002, 07:18 PM	#4
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	md2lgyk Your exectly right it is an over travel screw, both Clark and Volquartsen offer it on the replacment triggers for the Mark II. Tony Z __________________ Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

December 6, 2002, 09:05 AM	#6
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	JohnKSa Sounds like your the man I needs to do a trigger job on my Bullseye Target Mark II. Tony Z __________________ Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

December 7, 2002, 10:43 AM	#9
tonyz Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2000 Location: Wa Posts: 922	Thanks John. I have taken the Ruger apart down to the trigger assemble before, polishing any of the parts that needed it up to that point. I am thinking of putting in the Volquartsen Accurizing Kit. If I mess it up I can always take theGun and parts to the Gun Smith. He is a Mark II man, that can really tune the trigger on the rugers with just a new trigger from Clarks. I am the type of person that likes to do the job myself, if it turns out good I am very please in a job done well by me. Tony Z __________________ Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

December 5, 2002, 02:34 PM	#2
Sactown Member Join Date: November 1, 2002 Location: Home of the Kings Posts: 69	Try www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/ They have a Ruger forum that should be able to answer your question. I installed the Volquartsen trigger parts, the trigger had an overtravel screw in it. If only ruger put in a pre-travel adjustment for their triggers.

December 5, 2002, 09:58 PM	#5
JohnKSa Staff Join Date: February 12, 2001 Location: DFW Area Posts: 25,014	Ruger calls it a target trigger and implies that it's a special part. However, to date, I have yet to find a Mark II of any model that didn't come with one installed from the factory. The adjustment screw is tightened all the way down, so you have to take the gun all apart and then back the screw out a little at a time until it just barely releases the sear. The Mark II pistols have a VERY nice trigger after you remove all the overtravel. If you want them to be a little nicer, you can shim the trigger to prevent side-to-side movement and then polish the sear a bit. In the past, I have cut a half a coil to a full coil off the trigger return spring (located in the trigger under the plunger), but the last two I have worked on I didn't do it and couldn't really tell the difference in the final trigger pull. As for dryfiring while disassembled. You don't need to worry. By the time you get it taken apart to the point that you can work on the trigger, the mainspring has been out of the gun for awhile. Remember, that's the first part that you remove. You'll have to push the hammer forward with your thumb while pulling the trigger. BTW, there is a retaining spring holding in the trigger pin. Don't just drive the pin out--when you depress the spring properly the pin will push out easily.

December 6, 2002, 11:38 AM	#7
yzguy Senior Member Join Date: July 11, 2002 Location: FL Posts: 297	yes that is an over travel adjustment that is not set at the factory. It is kind of a pain to adjust because you have to disassemble (pull the trigger out) to adjust it, then reassemble to check the adjustment. You can also modify that trigger to have a pretravel screw of the same nature. Look at where the screw is in relation to the pivot point of the trigger. It is above it. If you go to home depot and get a small set screw and a tap, you can put a similar screw in the trigger below the pivot point. This will be the pretravel adjustment. I got the SS Vol. Targer trigger which has an over travel stop that can be adjusted externally. I have not attempted the pre-travel modification on it because it is SS (stock trigger is aluminum, much easier to work with) and I'm not sure if such a small tap will break off inside my trigger because if it being SS. I may even put the stock one back in with the pretravel mod... not sure yet... here is a pic of some one else's pretravel screw: http://www.1bad69.com/gallery/GunStu...r/dsc00046.jpg

December 6, 2002, 10:35 PM	#8
JohnKSa Staff Join Date: February 12, 2001 Location: DFW Area Posts: 25,014	Tonyz, I'm not a gunsmith. The Mark IIs I've worked on have been mine (I've owned 4) or belonged to very close friends. There's nothing complicated about the procedure though. To start with, forget about the shims and the polishing. Disassemble the gun until you are holding just the grip frame with its internal parts. Using a small screwdriver, locate the trigger pin retaining spring (it's a long curved spring that comes up out of the magazine well--kind of--and runs under the trigger pin on the right side of the frame). When you have it depressed, the trigger pin will practically fall out of the frame, or will be easy to push out. With the trigger pin out of the gun the trigger assembly will swing up and out of the gun on the trigger bar. Do this carefully to keep all the parts together. Back the screw out a little and swing the trigger back down into the frame. Put the trigger pin in BACKWARDS from the left side of the frame so that it doesn't lock into place (the locking groove will be on the wrong side of the gun) and test the gun by pushing the hammer all the way back and then forward. It will catch on the sear and you should be able to release it with the trigger (or not). Remember, there's no mainspring in the gun so you'll have to do its job with your thumb. Repeat this procedure until the overtravel is removed. Don't mess with the screw any more than you have to so it doesn't loosen up. If it gets too loose you will have to loc-tite it in place. So far I've never had to. This is a bit simplified because I've left out the fact that you have to deal with a piece of the slide lock/release assembly that also rides on the trigger pin. There's a plunger and a pin that will come out when you pull out the trigger pin and you'll have to get it back the way it was when you put things back together (no need to mess with it during the adjustment process. It's not hard, but I recommend looking at everything carefully before you remove the trigger pin. Put some light grease on top of the trigger return plunger that sits on top of the trigger and get some on the sear if you can. Don't remove any of the other pins in the gun. There's no need to mess with them. If you're not happy with your new trigger then you can polish the sear. Have fun, John

December 8, 2002, 01:48 PM	#10
Shalako Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2002 Location: Sacto, PRK Posts: 102	Wow! Thanks a lot guys. John your directions sound great . I will read them a few more times and go take a looksee at that trigger. This is one of those do-it-yourself jobs that can really be fun, especially if it can improve your groups and get you to know your firearm better. Thanks again! -Shalako