Walk-in Safe Ideas

osu_springer · June 7, 2005, 07:38 AM

I'm currently in the process of building a walk-in safe, yes, primarily for the firearms that I own. I plan on getting a regular vault door that is fire rated to some ungodly amount, and building the walls of this safe with concrete block. The block will be rebar reinforced, along with having the exterior lined with 1.5" of drywall for extra fire protection. Now beyond all of this, anyone have any extra ideas or good places for custom vault doors? I also plan on putting other things in this vault, camera collection and such things as that, so those must be considered as well. Now let the ideas fly!

Avizpls · June 7, 2005, 08:49 AM

a voice recording of a sexy-sounding lady saying "Welcome home Mr. Springer" when you open the door.....(or whatever your name is)

XDoctor · June 7, 2005, 10:59 AM

I was working consturction when we built a new home for the local wack job here in town. (Swears the government is out to get him, black heliocopters, aliens probing our nether regions etc.) His armory was in the basement, 2' of concrete on all sides with a door that looked like it came directly off a bank vault.

dakotashooter2 · June 7, 2005, 11:42 AM

What about the ceiling, humidity control and lighting. The block walls won't do much good if the fiery ceiling collapses into the vault. You might also want to consider "filling" the voids in the blocks for more strength.

racinstylez · June 7, 2005, 12:00 PM

euuu euuu....you gotta put a a finger print scanner, dna match and retina scan. Also have ahot chick saying "Welcome Mr.______, How was your day?" Ohh ohh....and you gotta have booby traps before the vault door. Like if the scan doesnt go thru then a big ball of fire comes spitting out or spikes come out from the ground....and a big huge rock ball comes chasing you. hahaha.... too many james bond and indiana jones movies

osu_springer · June 7, 2005, 12:36 PM

As for the ceiling, that will be built pretty much the same way as the walls, only it'll have a concrete pad in place of the blocks. Everything will have drywall on it for fire protection.
For humidity control I'll probably run dehumidifiers in there and have them emptied daily or however often they need it. I could probably run them into a drain system so that that is not even necessary. Any integrated systems for humidity control that anyone knows of, info would be appreciated.
Voice greeting... now there's a thought....
Biometric scanning entry... Very interesting indeed. Microsoft has products for just that type of application. Would be neat, although not necessarily practical for the vault... now for the gunsafe in my room that would be quite a treat...

racinstylez · June 7, 2005, 12:56 PM

they sell a dehumidifier that you do not need to empty. it comes with a pump that will pump out of your house into a drail well. Like this,...this is what we use to have in our basement.

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/rm_electric...376170,00.html

steelersfan0000 · June 9, 2005, 06:09 PM

It would be mission imposible to try to steal your guns.

bubbygator · June 9, 2005, 06:37 PM

Things like this are better is an intruder doesn't realize the room is there. I have mine in an "office" room inside a weird closet that shouldn't have been there in the first place. I've placed a row of bookshelves (3 units, each about 40" wide x 9 feet high) along the wall with the closet - with one bookcase completely hiding the closet doorway (I took off the door). All the bookcases are loaded with stuff. The one covering the doorway has teflon sliders on the bottom, so I can (with a little effort) slide it open like a door.

Other ways might come to mind.

**Rich Lucibella** · June 9, 2005, 06:50 PM

It then also functions as a Safe Room for you and/or Family.

Diebold Door. While they make bank safes, they also make affordable, steel, push button safe entry doors that'll take about an hour to torch thru. Dial is powered by your AC with 9V backup in case power is cut. Stay away from keyed entry; make certain it has a bomb-proof, mechanical exit mechanism.

Add in a monitor for security cams and a separate cell phone, "illegally" cloned to your regular number and you pretty much have it all in terms of ability to withstandor counter any attack.

Wanna get real sexy?:
Go to the local Home Heath Supplies Store and get an Oxy bottle and enough masks/connections for the family.

Hey, why didn't I think of all this?!

Rich

Limeyfellow · June 13, 2005, 01:44 AM

A way to get out of the vault if you accidently lock yourself in. You know its bound to happen sooner or later as soon as you make the perfect defended vault.

just one question · June 13, 2005, 09:38 AM

Maybe you should have some wooden(or concrete) boards to help prop up the ceiling to make sure it dont cave in. You dont want that to happen with all your valuables in there.

Handy · June 13, 2005, 10:31 AM

Along with making it a safe room, if you store water in a plastic barrel for drinking, it will give you additional fire protection. As the room heats up it will have trouble going over 212 degrees until the water boils off - which takes awhile with 50 gallons.

Other than that, I would consider using a security door and a hidden, rather than combination lock. If no one can find the latch, then it isn't much different than a key or combination. Faster access for you.

Subterfuge is another good defense. Use an electrical panel or piece of heater duct work as a facade for the door. You can't break in if you don't know it's there.

Baba Louie · June 13, 2005, 11:08 AM

http://www.americansafes.com/vault-doors.html
http://usbankequipment.com/index.cfm?ID=2
http://www.whoutdoors.com/vaultdoors_browning.htm
http://securitysafesguide.com/vault-door-safe-room.html

Consider using steel decking (3"-21 ga. or better) w/ 3" - 4" of concrete atop for vault roof (if you can get this in under floor above and still have room to install things). Of course it will only span so far (10'+/-) which might be a limiting factor.
You'll need to find out what type of attachment vault door frame requires into solid grouted CMU as well.
Make sure to seal all penetrations w/ UL approved firestop material

sm · June 14, 2005, 11:50 PM

Ditto

Except we used mechanical dials, usually with a key system with 3 time locks.

Depending ... we had two dials, or one dial and two key systems. We often used the door with the glass inside - burn bar,( other methods too) would break glass thus locking safe down. BTDT and is very expensive to have the Tann, Diebold or whomever guy break into your safe/ vault door

Now I have heard by more than source the best safe set up are used by Iranians...

Europeans use(d) no dials. I have used one vault door like this. It took three of us to be present with our key to open safe. We were NOT allowed to travel, ride in same vehicle, same flight. We were never to be together once the safe was opened, at least one of us left the area/stayed away once opened / closed.

Oxygen is a real good idea. We also had firearms ( yeah I know ) in case BGs opened door to check on us if we were forced / locked inside. We added landline (unlisted) water, food,pottie bucket , first aid kitsplaying cards Scotch...

We based some things on the misfortune of others having been locked in their own vaults.

There is a reason the sticker on door says " keep fingers away from door when closing". That door that heavy, on ball bearings will take a finger off like a guillitine.

Check with a locksmith - sometimes the vault doors banks used and bank moves are available. Sometimes the vaults used in trailers for temp bank sites are bought 'right".

Tip: have vault door delivered before the high dollar marble, glass, or whatever fancy entry you have installed. Vault doors are HEAVY...entry ways break ...that too is expensive. Don't ask...just don't ask I know more than once...

osu_springer · June 16, 2005, 12:10 AM

Thanks for all the great ideas. This room is not intended to be a hideout room, mainly just a big walk-in gunsafe. I'm currently thinking about starting my own gunshop, so a safe is necessary. Not to mention my family's large oddball collection of guns and other "stuff." Any door I install will have an internal release. I can just see my 5 year old nephew watching me walk in and finding it funny to lock his uncle in the safe. The door will be hidden within a closet type enclosure, so that will not be evident that it is there.
I live in a relatively low crime, rural area, but you can never be too safe. Once one person knows that you have an "arsenal" (25+ guns I hear?) everyone else will eventually know that you collect. That's when you have to worry about people becoming too "interested" in your collection.

Heist · June 16, 2005, 12:17 AM

I had the idea of burying a Conex container in my yard, around a story down, and connecting it to the basement with a braced, reinforced, and cinderblock lined tunnel. How workable would that be?

Willis · June 16, 2005, 12:38 AM

You also need the safe floor a few inches higher than the floor around it. This will keep any water that might end up on the floor out of the safe. I am thinking of a water leak or fire. The water has to get to 3 1/2 inches to get into my safe.

Good luck
Willis

June 7, 2005, 07:38 AM	#1
osu_springer Junior Member Join Date: June 4, 2005 Location: Columbus or East Liverpool, Ohio Posts: 14	Walk-in Safe Ideas I'm currently in the process of building a walk-in safe, yes, primarily for the firearms that I own. I plan on getting a regular vault door that is fire rated to some ungodly amount, and building the walls of this safe with concrete block. The block will be rebar reinforced, along with having the exterior lined with 1.5" of drywall for extra fire protection. Now beyond all of this, anyone have any extra ideas or good places for custom vault doors? I also plan on putting other things in this vault, camera collection and such things as that, so those must be considered as well. Now let the ideas fly! __________________ Ignorance of a Right will lead to Loss of a Right In the holster: SA Loaded 1911 Ruger .357 Old-Model Blackhawk In the Rack: Mauser K98 Schmidt-Rubin K31 Mosin Nagant 91/30

June 7, 2005, 12:00 PM	#5
racinstylez Senior Member Join Date: May 23, 2005 Posts: 240	euuu euuu....you gotta put a a finger print scanner, dna match and retina scan. Also have ahot chick saying "Welcome Mr.______, How was your day?" Ohh ohh....and you gotta have booby traps before the vault door. Like if the scan doesnt go thru then a big ball of fire comes spitting out or spikes come out from the ground....and a big huge rock ball comes chasing you. hahaha.... too many james bond and indiana jones movies __________________ Sigmund Freud: "A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity."

June 7, 2005, 12:36 PM	#6
osu_springer Junior Member Join Date: June 4, 2005 Location: Columbus or East Liverpool, Ohio Posts: 14	As for the ceiling, that will be built pretty much the same way as the walls, only it'll have a concrete pad in place of the blocks. Everything will have drywall on it for fire protection. For humidity control I'll probably run dehumidifiers in there and have them emptied daily or however often they need it. I could probably run them into a drain system so that that is not even necessary. Any integrated systems for humidity control that anyone knows of, info would be appreciated. Voice greeting... now there's a thought.... Biometric scanning entry... Very interesting indeed. Microsoft has products for just that type of application. Would be neat, although not necessarily practical for the vault... now for the gunsafe in my room that would be quite a treat... __________________ Ignorance of a Right will lead to Loss of a Right In the holster: SA Loaded 1911 Ruger .357 Old-Model Blackhawk In the Rack: Mauser K98 Schmidt-Rubin K31 Mosin Nagant 91/30

June 7, 2005, 12:56 PM	#7
racinstylez Senior Member Join Date: May 23, 2005 Posts: 240	they sell a dehumidifier that you do not need to empty. it comes with a pump that will pump out of your house into a drail well. Like this,...this is what we use to have in our basement. http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/rm_electric...376170,00.html __________________ Sigmund Freud: "A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity."

June 9, 2005, 06:50 PM	#10
Rich Lucibella Staff Join Date: October 6, 1998 Location: South Florida Posts: 10,229	It then also functions as a Safe Room for you and/or Family. Diebold Door. While they make bank safes, they also make affordable, steel, push button safe entry doors that'll take about an hour to torch thru. Dial is powered by your AC with 9V backup in case power is cut. Stay away from keyed entry; make certain it has a bomb-proof, mechanical exit mechanism. Add in a monitor for security cams and a separate cell phone, "illegally" cloned to your regular number and you pretty much have it all in terms of ability to withstandor counter any attack. Wanna get real sexy?: Go to the local Home Heath Supplies Store and get an Oxy bottle and enough masks/connections for the family. Hey, why didn't I think of all this?! Rich __________________ S.W.A.T. Magazine Weapons, Training and Tactics for the Real World Join us at TFL or at AR15.com or on Facebook

June 7, 2005, 08:49 AM	#2
Avizpls Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2004 Posts: 774	a voice recording of a sexy-sounding lady saying "Welcome home Mr. Springer" when you open the door.....(or whatever your name is)

June 7, 2005, 10:59 AM	#3
XDoctor Senior Member Join Date: May 30, 2004 Posts: 221	I was working consturction when we built a new home for the local wack job here in town. (Swears the government is out to get him, black heliocopters, aliens probing our nether regions etc.) His armory was in the basement, 2' of concrete on all sides with a door that looked like it came directly off a bank vault.

June 7, 2005, 11:42 AM	#4
dakotashooter2 Senior Member Join Date: January 13, 2005 Posts: 498	What about the ceiling, humidity control and lighting. The block walls won't do much good if the fiery ceiling collapses into the vault. You might also want to consider "filling" the voids in the blocks for more strength.

June 9, 2005, 06:09 PM	#8
steelersfan0000 Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Location: OHIO Posts: 223	It would be mission imposible to try to steal your guns.

June 9, 2005, 06:37 PM	#9
bubbygator Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2004 Location: Sarasota Posts: 130	Things like this are better is an intruder doesn't realize the room is there. I have mine in an "office" room inside a weird closet that shouldn't have been there in the first place. I've placed a row of bookshelves (3 units, each about 40" wide x 9 feet high) along the wall with the closet - with one bookcase completely hiding the closet doorway (I took off the door). All the bookcases are loaded with stuff. The one covering the doorway has teflon sliders on the bottom, so I can (with a little effort) slide it open like a door. Other ways might come to mind.

June 13, 2005, 01:44 AM	#11
Limeyfellow Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2005 Posts: 1,380	A way to get out of the vault if you accidently lock yourself in. You know its bound to happen sooner or later as soon as you make the perfect defended vault.

June 13, 2005, 09:38 AM	#12
just one question Senior Member Join Date: April 5, 2005 Posts: 213	well Maybe you should have some wooden(or concrete) boards to help prop up the ceiling to make sure it dont cave in. You dont want that to happen with all your valuables in there.

June 13, 2005, 10:31 AM	#13
Handy Junior member Join Date: August 31, 2001 Posts: 8,785	Along with making it a safe room, if you store water in a plastic barrel for drinking, it will give you additional fire protection. As the room heats up it will have trouble going over 212 degrees until the water boils off - which takes awhile with 50 gallons. Other than that, I would consider using a security door and a hidden, rather than combination lock. If no one can find the latch, then it isn't much different than a key or combination. Faster access for you. Subterfuge is another good defense. Use an electrical panel or piece of heater duct work as a facade for the door. You can't break in if you don't know it's there.

June 13, 2005, 11:08 AM	#14
Baba Louie Senior Member Join Date: September 23, 2001 Posts: 1,552	http://www.americansafes.com/vault-doors.html http://usbankequipment.com/index.cfm?ID=2 http://www.whoutdoors.com/vaultdoors_browning.htm http://securitysafesguide.com/vault-door-safe-room.html Consider using steel decking (3"-21 ga. or better) w/ 3" - 4" of concrete atop for vault roof (if you can get this in under floor above and still have room to install things). Of course it will only span so far (10'+/-) which might be a limiting factor. You'll need to find out what type of attachment vault door frame requires into solid grouted CMU as well. Make sure to seal all penetrations w/ UL approved firestop material __________________ A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government." - George Washington, January 8, 1790, First State of the Union Address

June 14, 2005, 11:50 PM	#15
sm Senior Member Join Date: February 5, 2002 Posts: 1,819	Rich's Post Ditto Except we used mechanical dials, usually with a key system with 3 time locks. Depending ... we had two dials, or one dial and two key systems. We often used the door with the glass inside - burn bar,( other methods too) would break glass thus locking safe down. BTDT and is very expensive to have the Tann, Diebold or whomever guy break into your safe/ vault door Now I have heard by more than source the best safe set up are used by Iranians... Europeans use(d) no dials. I have used one vault door like this. It took three of us to be present with our key to open safe. We were NOT allowed to travel, ride in same vehicle, same flight. We were never to be together once the safe was opened, at least one of us left the area/stayed away once opened / closed. Oxygen is a real good idea. We also had firearms ( yeah I know ) in case BGs opened door to check on us if we were forced / locked inside. We added landline (unlisted) water, food,pottie bucket , first aid kitsplaying cards Scotch... We based some things on the misfortune of others having been locked in their own vaults. There is a reason the sticker on door says " keep fingers away from door when closing". That door that heavy, on ball bearings will take a finger off like a guillitine. Check with a locksmith - sometimes the vault doors banks used and bank moves are available. Sometimes the vaults used in trailers for temp bank sites are bought 'right". Tip: have vault door delivered before the high dollar marble, glass, or whatever fancy entry you have installed. Vault doors are HEAVY...entry ways break ...that too is expensive. Don't ask...just don't ask I know more than once... __________________ Use Enough Gun TFL Alumni

June 16, 2005, 12:10 AM	#16
osu_springer Junior Member Join Date: June 4, 2005 Location: Columbus or East Liverpool, Ohio Posts: 14	Thanks for all the great ideas. This room is not intended to be a hideout room, mainly just a big walk-in gunsafe. I'm currently thinking about starting my own gunshop, so a safe is necessary. Not to mention my family's large oddball collection of guns and other "stuff." Any door I install will have an internal release. I can just see my 5 year old nephew watching me walk in and finding it funny to lock his uncle in the safe. The door will be hidden within a closet type enclosure, so that will not be evident that it is there. I live in a relatively low crime, rural area, but you can never be too safe. Once one person knows that you have an "arsenal" (25+ guns I hear?) everyone else will eventually know that you collect. That's when you have to worry about people becoming too "interested" in your collection. __________________ Ignorance of a Right will lead to Loss of a Right In the holster: SA Loaded 1911 Ruger .357 Old-Model Blackhawk In the Rack: Mauser K98 Schmidt-Rubin K31 Mosin Nagant 91/30

June 16, 2005, 12:17 AM	#17
Heist Junior member Join Date: June 6, 2005 Location: ETN, Again Posts: 760	I had the idea of burying a Conex container in my yard, around a story down, and connecting it to the basement with a braced, reinforced, and cinderblock lined tunnel. How workable would that be?

June 16, 2005, 12:38 AM	#18
Willis Member Join Date: June 14, 2005 Location: Montana Posts: 37	Dry safe You also need the safe floor a few inches higher than the floor around it. This will keep any water that might end up on the floor out of the safe. I am thinking of a water leak or fire. The water has to get to 3 1/2 inches to get into my safe. Good luck Willis