November 15, 2002, 12:17 PM | #1 |
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cold blue or bake on?
I recently noticed rust on the barrel of my Beretta 92 (from sitting in a damp police locker for some time)...the magazines also were startin to rust...the frame and slide are fine...what would be the best way to touch up the barrel and mags? a bake on laquer or some cold blue...and what would I have to do to prep it?
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November 15, 2002, 04:47 PM | #2 |
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If there is truly rust present, you should rub it off with some light oil and a soft cloth. Then strip the metal clean and dry with acetone before trying to blue as any oil on the surface will prevent the blue from taking.
Baked lacquer is going to come off the first time you hit it with gun cleaner solvent. Cold blue works, but rubs off a lot easier than hot blue that is put on guns at the factory. What I do is use the Birchwood casey blue liquid and a Q-tip. Dip the q-tip then dab it off on a paper towel so it is only slightly damp. Then rub it only on th area that's exposed steel. It may take some rubbing to get through the surface oxidation and take the blue. Note: 1) If the blue liquid touches other areas, it may discolor it. 2) After applying blue, flood (saturate) the area with oil and leave it overnight. Then wipe off excess oil and leave it with an oil sheen. 3) the instructions usually say strip to bare steel with steel wool or sandpaper before bluing: you will proabably end up with a huge mess. I usually just try to "dry rub" some bluing on the bare area just enough to darken it, then saturate with oil and let it set. If it rubs off, do it again. |
November 15, 2002, 04:50 PM | #3 |
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thanks..i'll try the cold blue....now, should i get a paste or liquid? any particular brand?
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November 15, 2002, 08:41 PM | #4 |
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Get some WD-40 and some really fine steel wool. Spray the rust down with WD-40 and let it soak for a few minutes. Then take the fine steel wool and lightly buff the rust and it will come off and usually leave the finish unaffected. Do this before you start putting cold blue on your gun because if not done properly you'll end up with a mess...
7th
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November 16, 2002, 12:22 AM | #5 |
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I had a feeling I needed to steel wool it..I can still see the raised rust under the oil....thanks...by the way, what gauge steel wool?
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November 16, 2002, 12:38 AM | #6 |
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0000# and some quality gun oil should do the trick. Chances are, all you have is surface rust and there will be no need to touch up the finish. Go easy and I think you will be pleasantly surprised to see that the rust just vanishes with no trace.
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November 16, 2002, 12:44 AM | #7 |
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thanks again..will break free be good enough for the oil?
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November 16, 2002, 01:19 PM | #8 |
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yep,,break free will be fine....ditto to everything said so far.
Before the 0000 steel wool, try using some break free and the edge of a copper penny on the spots. If that doesn't do it then go the 0000 steel wool. I've used one of those cold blue "Pens" with good results on real tiny spots. Like said above though, it wears off and needs reapplied after a short time. |
November 16, 2002, 06:35 PM | #9 |
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You guys really know your s***...I bought some 0000 steel wool, hit it with break free, alittle rubbing, and wala...no rust and the barrel doesn't need any blue at all....kudos to you all....now which one of you wants to put down my hardwood floors?
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November 18, 2002, 07:21 PM | #10 |
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Use the bake on hardwood floors.
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November 19, 2002, 12:49 AM | #11 |
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It always pays to lurk around RAE's penny trick worked great on my lightly rusted S&W revolver. Thanks Guys!
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