What kind of lubricant do you use on your autoloader?

[johnwilliamson062]

Not dry lubes? I have heard that modern dry lubricants are the best (something between graphite and Buckminster Fullerenes) I don't really know what they are, but have been told by several serious shooters to use dry. Both were retired military, one Iraq and one Vietnam, so that may be why they liked it. I know at least in Iraq liquid is a terrible decision. I thought it was a good idea anywhere though.

[UniversalFrost]

ok, my main go to lube is CLP

my backup is Hoppes

and the backup to my backup is RemOil.

Johnwilliamson062 wrote:

I don't really know what they are, but have been told by several serious shooters to use dry. Both were retired military, one Iraq and one Vietnam, so that may be why they liked it. I know at least in Iraq liquid is a terrible decision. I thought it was a good idea anywhere though.

Oh and by the way I am a 2 time Iraqi freedom vet and 1 tour in afghanistan and you lube with CLP and it's like and then wipe dry. The lube leaves a thin DRY (almost) film on the weapons. The only time you really need to worry is when you get in the really fine powdery type of dust/sand that is common around some river banks. Now quit listening to the REMF types that probably didn't pull a trigger except in their stories they tell to folks to make their egos look bigger. If they used dry lubes on their wepons they will run into loads of jaming and lubrication issues under sustained fire and believe it or not the graphite lubes actually attract the dust more than the PROPERLY applied liquid lubes. CLP was issued and CLP has proven the best for me in all environments from the sub zero mt.'s of Kosovo and Bosnia to the dry dust storms in Afghnaistan (and the friggin' cold mt's as well) and the iraqi sand box.

[SR420]

MD Labs XF-7 weapons grease.

[Huntergirl]

Hoppes Dry Lube is pretty good stuff.

[hapkido]

has anyone used gunjuice?

[RedneckFur]

I use whatever oil I have handy. Uasually Outers or Gunslick, but none of my guns are too good to get a coating of 3-in-1 one if thats what I've got on hand. My target .22 and my Ak might get some weapon shield every now and then, but no special synthetic dry lubes for me.

[Bogie]

I've been using Viking Machine SuperSlide... It's a synthetic, and it -really- likes to stick to metal. Very slick, very thin works very well - a little dab'll do you. Due to the viscosity bit, it is NOT meant for arid/sandy climates, but for competition or every day carry in generally "cleanish" environments, it rocks.

High "melting" point too, which helps with some stuff.

[Picher]

Semi-auto rimfires fare better with dry lubricants because greases and oils accumulate grit and grime from the blowback operation that builds deposits on all moving parts.

Deposits on bolt face and breech cause more and more headspace that affects accuracy from poor ignition of the priming compound. Eventually, it leads to misfires, but before then, larger groups with flyers.

I've used Dri-Slide over the years with great success. It has been my primary lubricant for revolver internals and triggers of all guns. Lately, I've used Brownell's Action Lube Plus on bolt and lever-action rifle parts, but use liquids very sparingly.

Break-Free CLP is what I use the most to protect exterior surfaces from rust. It also works well as a lubricant where grit accumulation is not a big problem.

One of the worst things for guns is too much oil in mechanisms. Iv'e cleaned old guns that had their wood parts soaked and rotted from the oils squirted in them, then had the gun stood in a corner, where the oil dripped out into the wood around the back of the receivers. This is particularly troublesome on nice old shotguns and Winchester 94-type actions.

The Winchester 94 is infamous for wearing itself out, just by loading and unloading. It has an open-topped receiver and exposed hammer that allow all kinds of forest debris and grit to accumulate. There are many nooks and crannies that hold grit very well. The action is very difficult for most people to disassemble and clean, leading to lack of maintenance. When the average 94 barrel is cleaned, it's usually from the muzzle end. That causes wear at the crown, which is the most critical part of the bore.

Sorry, I got carried away. Just lube lightly and clean out grit often. Dry is better than gooey!

Picher

[Arabia]

Center fire pistols, a bit of Shooter Choice grease on the slide rails.

Rimfire pistol. Nothing

AR-15 Slip 2000 EWL and a dab of grease on high friction areas on the BCG.

[CPTMurdoc30]

While I don't like CLP for what the military needs it works good. Most of the time I had range officers that liked to pour it in over every thing My lower sometimes looked like an oil pan. But never had a jam didn't like it spitting in my face though.

I would never ever use a dry lube in combat. Why well I would have to pay it for one and the abundance of CLP in a desert combat area is going to high so why pay for something when you don't have to.

[Picher]

Fine sand and grit sticks to oily surfaces, not to dry surfaces. The sand acts like sandpaper on all moving parts, wearing them out prematurely and creating jams.

Our range is often like a desert, with wind blowing fine sand into everything. Match triggers don't like grit.

That may not be important to some people, but I keep my guns a long time and don't want them worn out or gritty when I use them.

Picher

[beretgreen]

Sentry Solutions Hi-slip Grease 18 rnds in a 20 rnd clip. Never had a jam.

[sc928porsche]

STP. nothing else seems to work a well!

[jakeswensonmt]

AR15: CLP
22LR: Outers gun oil
Everything else: Tetra grease

particularly troublesome on nice old shotguns and Winchester 94-type actions.

So what are you using on the Winchy 94's? I have two, and have never quite been sure what the ideal lube would be.

[Picher]

In non-sandy conditions, a light coating of grease on wearing surfaces like Brownells' Action Plus works good on Win 94s, etc. as long as the action is taken apart and cleaned well once a year or so. A little goes a long way.

Grease is best for heavier, high-stress parts because it has a higher film strength and can take the racking of a lever-action. A thin coating of an oil or dry lube is best for small parts with low stress. That might be something like the cylinder locking bolt of a revolver, extractor springs, trigger group parts. The trigger and sear contacts should receive a moly lubricant, if possible.

Picher

[Martyn4802]

+1 to all of Picher's posts above.

Martyn

[Trinity-Nine]

KY Jelly.