S&W mod 36 heavy trigger/hammer pull normal?

mlh1974 · February 10, 2009, 09:17 AM

hello all,
i just got a model 36 431xxx and was informed that a heavy trigger and hammer are normal for this model as it uses a "heavy coil mainspring rather than the leaf spring that's found in the larger revolver frames."
how do you model 36 lovers deal with or remedy the heavy DA pull ect.
thanks in advance

Tom2 · February 10, 2009, 04:16 PM

I have installed springs like Wolf in mine. Don't automatically go to the lightest springs and forget about it, your reliability will suffer. You might try just breaking in a new gun, the spring force will reduce under usage to a point. And some slick as snot lube, applied sparingly in the right places, might help too. Remember with the smaller gun, the mechanicals are different, you will not get as much leverage in the action as in a larger frame, maybe, you cannot reduce the forces below where it will bust a cap 100% of the time!

Webleymkv · February 10, 2009, 04:21 PM

Due to their smaller, lighter hammer, J-Frames require a heavier mainspring than their larger cousins in order to ensure reliable primer ignition. In addition to the hammer spring, replacement of the rebound spring may improve the trigger pull. I'd reccomend a Wolff shooter's pack

http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolver/S...RvNF.html#S&WJ

Casimer · February 10, 2009, 07:02 PM

Something to consider before you modify your revolver is that you can always sell or trade it for another one. The Chief's Special is a popular model. I doubt that you'd need to take a loss on it.

The only reason that I mention this is that it seems that the 36 isn't what you'd anticipated it would be. If you're looking for a revolver w/ a light DA and SA trigger, your best bet is to go with a K-Frame or larger revolver. While you can reduce the trigger weight on a J-Frame, you'll run into ignition problems (i.e. light strikes on the primer) before you're able to get it down to the weights that you can achieve w/ the larger models.

mlh1974 · February 10, 2009, 11:27 PM

thanks for input'n guys.
i have been using snap caps -- i think i just need to get used to this particular gun...
i havent shot it yet, but just pulling DA seems to make me feel better about it, I have only shot a python and ruger sa for revolvers. i will let you all know how it goes once i get a chance to let a few loose.

James K · February 10, 2009, 11:44 PM

I don't know if the OP has any standard of comparison, but the Model 36 should not have a heavier pull than the other J frame revolvers which all have coil mainsprings.

As Webleymkv says, the small, light hammer needs more spring power for reliability since momentum is required to fire a primer and momentum is mass times velocity. Decrease the mass of the hammer and you have to increase its speed, which means a powerful spring.

All guns made for serious purposes have a built in factor to ensure reliability under conditions of cold, dirt, mud, etc. If you don't need that extra power, you can replace the hammer spring and the rebound slide spring to reduce the trigger pull significantly.

Jim

redlevel42 · February 11, 2009, 09:54 PM

I'm one of those who believes that you shouldn't fool with the factory springs on a gun you might have to use to save your life. A plinker or target gun is another matter. If you will put several hundred double action rounds and do a bunch of dry firing, the action will smooth out some, and you will get a little more accustomed to it. It will never be a k-frame, though.

Tom2 · February 11, 2009, 10:09 PM

I don't know if it is the rim thickness or what, but those plastic snap caps seemed to cause rotational friction in some K frames I had. See if they are affecting your action with the J frame for some reason. So far the springs I changed into my J frame have not affected DA reliability, but they did make a reduction in pull. Not to something ultra light but a noticeable improvement. Of course you do so at your own risk. Otherwise a gunsmith can do it for you and he will presumably test fire and stand behind the work. Or maybe Smith factory people will do a trigger job. I think their website has a price list. I assume you are paying for the extra time they could not afford to spend in normal production. Those guns have to have maybe a bit more hammer force to allow a margin for error due to limited hands on time in the test line.

February 10, 2009, 09:17 AM	#1
mlh1974 Member Join Date: February 9, 2009 Posts: 32	S&W mod 36 heavy trigger/hammer pull normal? hello all, i just got a model 36 431xxx and was informed that a heavy trigger and hammer are normal for this model as it uses a "heavy coil mainspring rather than the leaf spring that's found in the larger revolver frames." how do you model 36 lovers deal with or remedy the heavy DA pull ect. thanks in advance

February 10, 2009, 04:16 PM	#2
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	I have installed springs like Wolf in mine. Don't automatically go to the lightest springs and forget about it, your reliability will suffer. You might try just breaking in a new gun, the spring force will reduce under usage to a point. And some slick as snot lube, applied sparingly in the right places, might help too. Remember with the smaller gun, the mechanicals are different, you will not get as much leverage in the action as in a larger frame, maybe, you cannot reduce the forces below where it will bust a cap 100% of the time! __________________ Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you!

February 11, 2009, 09:54 PM	#7
redlevel42 Senior Member Join Date: July 27, 2007 Location: South Georgia Posts: 310	I'm one of those who believes that you shouldn't fool with the factory springs on a gun you might have to use to save your life. A plinker or target gun is another matter. If you will put several hundred double action rounds and do a bunch of dry firing, the action will smooth out some, and you will get a little more accustomed to it. It will never be a k-frame, though. __________________ Georgia on My Mind

February 11, 2009, 10:09 PM	#8
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	I don't know if it is the rim thickness or what, but those plastic snap caps seemed to cause rotational friction in some K frames I had. See if they are affecting your action with the J frame for some reason. So far the springs I changed into my J frame have not affected DA reliability, but they did make a reduction in pull. Not to something ultra light but a noticeable improvement. Of course you do so at your own risk. Otherwise a gunsmith can do it for you and he will presumably test fire and stand behind the work. Or maybe Smith factory people will do a trigger job. I think their website has a price list. I assume you are paying for the extra time they could not afford to spend in normal production. Those guns have to have maybe a bit more hammer force to allow a margin for error due to limited hands on time in the test line. __________________ Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you!

February 10, 2009, 04:21 PM	#3
Webleymkv Senior Member Join Date: July 20, 2005 Location: Indiana Posts: 10,446	Due to their smaller, lighter hammer, J-Frames require a heavier mainspring than their larger cousins in order to ensure reliable primer ignition. In addition to the hammer spring, replacement of the rebound spring may improve the trigger pull. I'd reccomend a Wolff shooter's pack http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolver/S...RvNF.html#S&WJ

February 10, 2009, 07:02 PM	#4
Casimer Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2007 Location: Pennsylvania, USA Posts: 1,918	Something to consider before you modify your revolver is that you can always sell or trade it for another one. The Chief's Special is a popular model. I doubt that you'd need to take a loss on it. The only reason that I mention this is that it seems that the 36 isn't what you'd anticipated it would be. If you're looking for a revolver w/ a light DA and SA trigger, your best bet is to go with a K-Frame or larger revolver. While you can reduce the trigger weight on a J-Frame, you'll run into ignition problems (i.e. light strikes on the primer) before you're able to get it down to the weights that you can achieve w/ the larger models.

February 10, 2009, 11:27 PM	#5
mlh1974 Member Join Date: February 9, 2009 Posts: 32	thanks for input'n guys. i have been using snap caps -- i think i just need to get used to this particular gun... i havent shot it yet, but just pulling DA seems to make me feel better about it, I have only shot a python and ruger sa for revolvers. i will let you all know how it goes once i get a chance to let a few loose.

February 10, 2009, 11:44 PM	#6
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I don't know if the OP has any standard of comparison, but the Model 36 should not have a heavier pull than the other J frame revolvers which all have coil mainsprings. As Webleymkv says, the small, light hammer needs more spring power for reliability since momentum is required to fire a primer and momentum is mass times velocity. Decrease the mass of the hammer and you have to increase its speed, which means a powerful spring. All guns made for serious purposes have a built in factor to ensure reliability under conditions of cold, dirt, mud, etc. If you don't need that extra power, you can replace the hammer spring and the rebound slide spring to reduce the trigger pull significantly. Jim