Lubrication - Oil Vs Gun Grease

[Rasputin]

i have been hearing that once applied oil will run and grease will stay. Is this true would grease be better than oil?

[JohnKSa]

It can be better. The downside is that grease can be worse about collecting and holding debris, and it can thicken to the point that it impairs function in cold weather.

I do use grease for some firearm lubrication applications, but only very sparingly, and never as a general purpose lube. It might get used in one or two high-wear spots on a firearm with oil being used for all the other lubrication points.

[wolfmann]

Ive been very happy with Tetra products.

[Dave R]

Too much oil will run. The right amount tends to stay put. Oil doesn't evaporate, much.

I use CLP-type products, and they tend to stay put well enough for me.

[Hallucinator]

I use a very light coat of Militec grease on the slide and it works beautifully. When I come home from the range, I clean it thoroughly with Hoppe's before applying another coat. I also put a little grease inside the top of the slide where the breach abrades against it during use.

[Martyn4802]

JohnKSa hit the important issue. Application.
Each lubing application requires an appropriate lube, or grease. I have a big shelf full of different lubes and greases, for use in a given application. Each aqpplication requires investigation as to which lube is appropriate, and the best one to use.
One lube/grease isn't good for all applications. It requires some study.

Martyn

[Shane Tuttle]

Eezox on all friction parts. Tiny amount of Tetra Gun Grease on the slides over the "cured" Eezox. This is my ritual...I mean practice...

[Alleykat]

Mobil 1 exceeds the lubricity and "sticking power" of every "gun-specific" lubricant on the market.

[Pahoo]

I think this has been covereed before, on this forum. That is what I will quote. "Gunk" make a product labled Motorcycle chain oil or just Chain oil. I use it sparingly and it sticks. It's not clear and in fact, when you shake it up, it's dark gray. I've been using it for about a couple of months and I like it even though it stinks when you first put it on.

[DWARREN123]

Eeazox and Steel Shield are both good products. Always use a little, most people over lube.

[ZeSpectre]

Grease if it slides, oil if it rotates.

Go easy on the lube, guns just don't need that much.

[JohnKSa]

Originally Posted by Alleykat

Mobil 1 exceeds the lubricity and "sticking power" of every "gun-specific" lubricant on the market.

Mobil 1 and Breakfree CLP are made of the same base fluid and this can be confirmed by examining the MSDS for each product. Their lubricity should be identical for all practical intents and purposes.

This is the second time you've posted something along these lines and the second time I've replied. How about some data supporting your claims if you're going to keep beating this drum?

[CGSteve8718]

I'm guessing this wouldn't apply to a range outing or even a hunting trip for us, but I read somewhere about WWII on the Eastern Front where either the Germans or the Russians (I forgot which one) used grease on their rifles and the other didn't, the side that didn't had their weapons have major function issues.

I've also read similar threads over at surplus rifle that some rifles prefer grease over lube for best performance, I think they said the K31 was one of these.

So, does any of this sound correct, and if it does, would it only apply to freezing Eastern Front temps and battlefield conditions? Right now, I use Militec to lubricate pretty much every gun I have, but I bought a can of RiG universal grease for long term storage of some of my guns, and maybe to use as pre firing lube for the war milsurps.

[BillCA]

Sliding parts in contact with each other deserve a thin film of grease. Thin being the operative word. If you can see it, it's at least 3 times as much as you need.

Too much grease acts as a magnet to powder fouling, dirt, dust, grit, sand, etc.

You'd be surprised how good of an applicator for grease a simple paper match stem can be. Dab some grease in the slide rails and spread with the "tool". On frame rails, a dab on the leading edge spread with a finger works. Just remember to use a patch to remove wipe it down until there is a thin film. I also apply a tiny dab to my pinky finger to spread on the barrel bushing and the exterior of the barrel. Wipe almost dry after spreading 360 degrees. Look for other wear points on your gun (barrel hood and the top of the chamber for instance).

Pivot points should be oil lubricated and so should springs & plungers. The thinner oil will penetrate and work around the curcumference of these pivots. Never grease a firing pin or it's spring.

Both grease and oils can be affected by extreme cold temperatures. In freezing temperatures, some greases start getting sticky - not a good thing on a slide or barrel bushing. If you and your gun will be spending a lot of time below about 28 degrees, replace the grease with gun oil. If you can, use a lighter-weight oil for pivoting and spring-loaded plungers.

Best oil applicator: A small syringe with a square-tipped needle. This allows precise placement of a single drop of oil even deep inside a gun. Minimizes oil waste and the mess of oil running where it isn't needed.

Freezing weather note:
Remember that if you're getting in and out of the warmed interior of your hunt truck or a patrol car into freezing weather, you may want to check your firearms for icing.

That warm air circulating around the gun likely has some moisture that will condense outdoors in the cold. If enough moisture collects around the ejection port and freezes you may find yourself with a single-shot weapon.

[dbsoundguy]

Never grease a firing pin or it's spring.

What a great post...thanks Bill

Did not know about the firing pin, i lube it evertime i clean any of my guns...

what happens to the firing pin