Which file to bevel 1911 a square firing pin stop?

Thirties · October 23, 2009, 09:08 AM

Which type/name file should I use to bevel the front bottom edge of a 1911 square firing pin stop? I am not looking for a complete set of tools -- just the right file for this job.

Is it a swiss file?

Thanks.

Scorch · October 23, 2009, 12:20 PM

Just use a mill file. I prefer fine cut, but a bastard cut then finish with wet/dry paper is OK.

doctruptwn · October 23, 2009, 12:21 PM

I'm going to assume that you are replacing an old firing pin stop with a EGW oversized stop and you want to put that nice bevel on the bottom. If thats the case. Don't bother, Just use a flat file and break the bottom corner. This will slow the recoil slightly helping to give a reduction in the felt recoil and will reduce the muzzle jump.

Here's som info:Firing Pin Stop Modification

Thirties · October 23, 2009, 04:32 PM

"I'm going to assume that you are replacing an old firing pin stop with a EGW oversized stop and you want to put that nice bevel on the bottom."

Yup, that is what I'm after. Thanks for the advice.

**Unclenick** · October 23, 2009, 08:47 PM

And it doesn't have to be a file. I installed a couple of those while on a visit with some friends, neither of whom had a file. But one of them did have one of those flat diamond grit-coated metal knife sharpening plates. It took a bit of rubbing because the side cuts leave extra metal and need to be reduced some to fit width of the recess in the slide and the extractor retainer groove, but in a little while I had a good fit. The same tool produced a perfectly serviceable light radius.

By the way, these really do work well. The ones I put in were as part of a trip to do a lot of shooting on plates and dueling trees and the like. We could all see there was a lot less vertical disturbance during recoil, so the sight picture returns fast.

Thirties · October 24, 2009, 06:40 AM

Thanks, Uncle! I've got a file on its way to me.

drail · October 25, 2009, 03:08 PM

A stone is all you really need. You don't want to remove enough metal to require a file. A piece of 320 grit sandpaper on a flat surface will do the job. You only want to break the corner slightly. Any more and you lose the advantage of the flat bottom stop. Go easy.

Thirties · October 25, 2009, 05:47 PM

drail, thanks. I've got a better idea of the process now.

Thirties · October 25, 2009, 06:48 PM

one more question . . . when you use a stone, do you need to use mineral oil on the stone?

drail · October 25, 2009, 09:23 PM

Depends on the stone. With much use a stone will load up with metal particles and will eventually stop cutting. For the short term use on this job it probably is not an issue. A diamond stone should be used with water only or dry and rinsed as it is used and loads up. A natural Arkansas or india stone can be used with water if it has never been used with oil. Once it is loaded with oil then you have to keep using oil. If you buy a new natural stone it can be used with water forever. I prefer to use water because it is less messy and I don't like honing oil on my kitchen knives. All of my gunsmithing stones are oil stones. I love diamond stones because they actually seem to get better with use. They're not cheap though.

October 23, 2009, 09:08 AM	#1
Thirties Senior Member Join Date: April 29, 2001 Location: Where the Red Sox meet the Black Bears Posts: 561	Which file to bevel 1911 a square firing pin stop? Which type/name file should I use to bevel the front bottom edge of a 1911 square firing pin stop? I am not looking for a complete set of tools -- just the right file for this job. Is it a swiss file? Thanks. Last edited by Thirties; October 23, 2009 at 10:14 AM.

October 23, 2009, 12:20 PM	#2
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Just use a mill file. I prefer fine cut, but a bastard cut then finish with wet/dry paper is OK. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

October 23, 2009, 08:47 PM	#5
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	And it doesn't have to be a file. I installed a couple of those while on a visit with some friends, neither of whom had a file. But one of them did have one of those flat diamond grit-coated metal knife sharpening plates. It took a bit of rubbing because the side cuts leave extra metal and need to be reduced some to fit width of the recess in the slide and the extractor retainer groove, but in a little while I had a good fit. The same tool produced a perfectly serviceable light radius. By the way, these really do work well. The ones I put in were as part of a trip to do a lot of shooting on plates and dueling trees and the like. We could all see there was a lot less vertical disturbance during recoil, so the sight picture returns fast. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle Last edited by Unclenick; October 23, 2009 at 08:52 PM.

October 23, 2009, 12:21 PM	#3
doctruptwn Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 2008 Location: Kansas Posts: 197	I'm going to assume that you are replacing an old firing pin stop with a EGW oversized stop and you want to put that nice bevel on the bottom. If thats the case. Don't bother, Just use a flat file and break the bottom corner. This will slow the recoil slightly helping to give a reduction in the felt recoil and will reduce the muzzle jump. Here's som info:Firing Pin Stop Modification

October 23, 2009, 04:32 PM	#4
Thirties Senior Member Join Date: April 29, 2001 Location: Where the Red Sox meet the Black Bears Posts: 561	"I'm going to assume that you are replacing an old firing pin stop with a EGW oversized stop and you want to put that nice bevel on the bottom." Yup, that is what I'm after. Thanks for the advice.

October 24, 2009, 06:40 AM	#6
Thirties Senior Member Join Date: April 29, 2001 Location: Where the Red Sox meet the Black Bears Posts: 561	Thanks, Uncle! I've got a file on its way to me.

October 25, 2009, 03:08 PM	#7
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	A stone is all you really need. You don't want to remove enough metal to require a file. A piece of 320 grit sandpaper on a flat surface will do the job. You only want to break the corner slightly. Any more and you lose the advantage of the flat bottom stop. Go easy.

October 25, 2009, 05:47 PM	#8
Thirties Senior Member Join Date: April 29, 2001 Location: Where the Red Sox meet the Black Bears Posts: 561	drail, thanks. I've got a better idea of the process now.

October 25, 2009, 06:48 PM	#9
Thirties Senior Member Join Date: April 29, 2001 Location: Where the Red Sox meet the Black Bears Posts: 561	one more question . . . when you use a stone, do you need to use mineral oil on the stone?

October 25, 2009, 09:23 PM	#10
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	Depends on the stone. With much use a stone will load up with metal particles and will eventually stop cutting. For the short term use on this job it probably is not an issue. A diamond stone should be used with water only or dry and rinsed as it is used and loads up. A natural Arkansas or india stone can be used with water if it has never been used with oil. Once it is loaded with oil then you have to keep using oil. If you buy a new natural stone it can be used with water forever. I prefer to use water because it is less messy and I don't like honing oil on my kitchen knives. All of my gunsmithing stones are oil stones. I love diamond stones because they actually seem to get better with use. They're not cheap though.